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ZILPAH TART - FASHFEST DESIGNER INTERVIEW

The countdown is on until the style elite descend on Canberra for FASHFEST. In the lead up I caught up with Canberra designer Yumi Morrissey who is the creative genius behind Zilpah Tart and its strong colourful unique prints that I am excited to see sashay down the runway. 
FASHFEST 2017 CANBERRA FASHION
Image: Andrew Donato

Where about's did you grow up?
I was born and raised in Canberra

What sparked your interest in fashion?
I decided when I was 7 years old that I wanted to be a fashion designer, and never changed my mind. I spent my time as a child making outfits for my troll dolls.

What personal history has(if any) influenced your views on fashion or your design aesthetic ?
I’ve always been a very girly girl so my designs are very feminine. I’ve also always found individuality important, even when I was a child, and so this is part of the way I design. The clothing stands out in a crowd, through the use of bright colours/prints and beautiful flattering shapes. It’s not designed to blend in, and the designs are not trend based.

How did you get to where you are now? Where did you study?
I studied a Bachelor of Fashion Design at Canberra Institute of Technology, graduating in 2007. My label at this point was just a hobby, while working in the public service. After my son was born in 2013, I quit my public service job to take my business full time. This was the time when I really started on the journey, working out what my true aesthetic and business direction was.

I am super excited to see the Canberra Institute of Technology, I adore the creativity of students and their willingness to push the envelope. How did you come up with the name for your label?
The name Zilpah tart was my grandmother’s name. Zilpah was her first name, and Tart was her maiden name. After she passed away, we were going through her things and I found a 1930s brooch of a penny farthing. At that point, I decided to use her name for the label and the image of the penny farthing for the logo.

WHATS ON IN CANBERRA ZILPAH TART
Yumi Morrissey designer of Zilpah Tart Image: Holly Morrison

How many people are in your team?
Just me, myself and I. I outsource a small amount of production here in Canberra, but everything else is created by me.

That really impresses me that you are so hands on with your work in all fascists. What is your favourite material to work with?
I use stretch jersey. I love using jersey for the comfort and fit. Particularly after having a child, comfort and being able to move easily (bending down picking up a child etc) became super important. But I like to look good, and generally jersey doesn’t fit that category. So I use design to be able to make beautiful clothing that is also comfortable.

Everyone has one material that they absolutely detest working with, what is your least favourite material to work with and why?
That’s a hard one… but probably chiffon. It’s slippery, it moves on the grain, and is tricky to cut and sew. I generally avoid it at all costs.

I love your use of colour in your designs can you describe your collection in 3 words?
Bright, floral, feminine.

What is your inspiration for creating?
For each collection I design three new fabric prints based on Canberra photographs. I choose a theme and this theme directs the photographs that I take to create the fabric prints. 

I love creating clothing that is beautiful and unique, and not only makes someone feel good wearing them, but through the use of photographic prints, creates a personal connection for the wearer as well.

I agree that clothing should empower you and make you feel great. What or who is your motivation?
My main motivation is being able to do what I love. I think following your passion in life is so important, and I’m motivated to make my dream a reality.

ON THE CATWALK IN AUSTRALIA
Image: Anthony Caffery

In the lead up to FASHFEST could you share a little about what I and the crowd may see?
The new collection is full of colour. I used photographs from several years of Floriade (pulled them from my Floriade photo collection). I followed a sort of garden nymph vibe, and this will continue through the makeup and hairstyling for Fashfest as well.

You use wonderful digital printed fabrics from inspiration you have captured around Canberra, what is your first memory of using a camera?
My interest in photography is definitely something that developed later on in life. It’s something I really enjoy, but I’ve only really gotten into it over the last seven years or so.

What makes you passionate about fashion and the women you dress?
The most important thing for me is being able to make someone absolutely LOVE what they have bought and are wearing. I want to be able to make women feel good and special when they are wearing a Zilpah tart dress. This has many levels too. Not just the aesthetics of the dresses – I use shapes that tend to flatter most body shapes – but the comfort, the easy care instructions, the versatility (being able to wear the dress with a blazer for work, with sandals on the weekend, and with heals to a cocktail party), knowing that they are wearing a cool photo, quite often cleverly hidden in a pattern – this creates talking points too. Then there’s the local aspect. My customers know they are supporting a local designer. They know that the product is made in Australia by me and they end up with a personal connection to me and to the clothing. It’s makes it more special than a mass-produced piece with no identity.

What are you looking forward to at FASHFEST, besides your designs on the runway?
This will be the launch of my collection so I’m super excited to finally show the new designs, but I love being able to work with other creative people involved in the show, from hair and makeup, models, musicians, and just seeing the whole event come together.

You have been involved with FASHFEST for a few years now. Can you tell me how the festival has changed over the years?
I started at Fashfest in its second year (I was eight months pregnant when Fashfest first launched or would have applied that year also). The show has grown enormously, and it’s really developed its own identity. There are more designers and It’s earned its spot as a major Canberra fashion event.

FASHFEST DESIGNER INTERVIEW
Image: Tina Nikolovski

Can you describe what runs through your mind when you see your designs walk down the runway?
I love being able to see the designs come to life as a collection. I don’t normally get to see the full collection all together on people at once so It’s great to be able to see that. I also love being able to create a total image using the hair and makeup and seeing it as a show. I’m really excited about the hair and makeup concepts for this year. It’s an opportunity to be really creative.

What type of woman do you envisage wearing your pieces when you create them?
My customers are professional women, aged 25 to 40. They are confident and have a keen interest in unique styles and love to look and feel good.

Where would you like to see Zilpah Tart in 5 years?
My main focus at the moment is trying to expand into the Melbourne market. I now stock at Design A Space in Manchester Lane and Windsor. I hope to be able to build on my customer base there, and then when that market is at a sustainable point, to perhaps expand into the Sydney market.

What advice would you give to an aspiring designer?
Think about what you can provide your customers. What do they do? What do they find important? What do they want/need? Think about how your product can appeal to them on different levels. For example, my customers always tell me they love how easy the dresses are to wash and dry and that they don’t need ironing. Many professional women are busy and travel a lot. They love to be able to throw a versatile dress in a suitcase, and not have to worry about needing to iron it in a hotel room.

One thing I should see or do whilst I am in Canberra?
One of my favourite places to go is the National Arboretum. The views are spectacular, you don’t want to miss it. Sunrise there is incredible if you are an early riser.

You’ll also be in Canberra at the only time of the year when Tulip Top gardens (just outside Canberra on the Hume Highway) are open. They are incredible. I’ve used photos from Tulip Top in a previous collection. Floods of blossom trees all in bloom, tulips, and amazing views.

GFASHCOLLECTIVE: Thank you for the travel recommendations and giving me a little insight into your world. I look forward to seeing Zilpah Tart strut down the runway on closing night at FASHFEST and wish you all the best for the collection. 

Tickets are on sale now at:  http://fashfest.com.au/:




Project Runway Recaps: "Rock-a-Bye Runway"--My "Extended" Recap of this week's episode!



Oh Baby!






Episode 11 Project Runway Muse: a "Real Care Baby" doll



Last night's Lifetime Network Project Runway Season 10 episode had CRYING fake babies, Diva Moms, and a nice self-contained ad for Heidi's new fabulous--and oh-so-cute line for children called "Truly Scrumptious"--available exclusively at Babies "R" Us. Oh and yeah, and an ending I didn't like...



First, The Babies and Baby Couture:






 Heidi Klum and her "Truly Scrumptious" line of children's clothing for Babies "R" Us



The Challenge was--not surprisingly to anyone with half a brain--to design a look for a toddler. In fact, it was to design a look for Heidi's new line; there would be TWO winning looks (a boy and a girl look) and each would be put into production and sold at Babies "R" Us.






Designers Meet Mommies and Babies---Episode 11 Project Runway Season 10



The designers met their clients--and their mommies. They later found out about a "Twist" (it's Project Runway after all) that, in addition to creating looks for the babies, they also had to make looks for the moms.






 No Mommy Zone: Season 10 designers and their fake babies



As part of some annoying edition to the episode, someone decided that the six remaining designers should also get one of those "Real Care Babies"--that you see on "Dr. Phil" or "16 and Pregnant" that cries and cries and cries--when it needs to be fed, diaper changed or taken care of. The designers spent A LOT of wasted time caring for these babies and not so much time working on their designs. It was, needless to say, annoying (maybe that was the point).






 Boris and Natasha Have Babies



But, my favorite snapshot of all that needless crying baby doll mess, was this pic of Boris and Natasha (i.e. Season 10 contestants/designers Dmitry Sholokhov and Elena Slivnyak), holding their fake babies. They seriously look like a mom and dad who've been "through it"!






 Designer Christopher Palu and his Diva Mom Client, Nanci--Episode 11 Project Runway Season 10



There was a "Diva Mom" of course who made for good TV. Nanci--designer Christopher Palu's mom client--was a DIVA from the get-go, especially when she took one look at Heidi's very cute line of children's clothing, turned her nose up and remarked "Baby Dior has Tulle..." Now, I know "Baby Dior" not because I've bought it but because it's known in the industry as the "Caviar" of Children's Clothing. And yes, I looked up what a red tulle little girl's dress from "Baby Dior" would go for...






 Baby Dior red tulle baby dress



And I came up with (wait for it!), $3680 for this red tulle dress above at Bergdorf Goodman (naturally). What Millionaire's Wife is buying this? I want to meet her and I want her as a CLIENT to buy my NIKOLAKI gowns. Period.





Let's Get to The Runway:







Guest judge actress and new mom, Hilary Duff (above), was on hand to see who was IN and who was OUT this week...



The Runway:







Dmitry Sholokhov: one of my top faves was the look Dmitry designed--a very cute red hooded onsesie jumper that was very "FASHION" and had hints of a Superhero Halloween Costume--or at least, one of a CRAYOLA crayon one:






Crayola and Superman Baby Costumes






Truly Scrumptious Boy and Girl: The Winning Boy and Girl Looks from Episode 11--Project Runway Season 10






Heidi Klum with the Boy and Girl Winning Looks for her "Truly Scrumptious" Childrenswear line at Babies "R" Us



Sonjia Williams designed the winning BOY look which was so cute: a gray jacket and pants with contrast lapel, pockets and waistband. Her baby model, Jude, SOLD IT!!! 50% of her win was because of HIM! Seriously. The GIRL winning look was the one by Christopher Palu (yet again!)--Miss Heidi kind of guided him back in the Parsons Workroom when she suggested he do a skirt out of that white fabric with sewn-on applique....so I am sure lots of you might say "Well, Heidi TOLD him what to do!!". I agree, she kinda did.



The Bottom:





Season 10 Contestants/Designers Elena Slivnyak and Melissa Fleis were the bottom vote-getters. Elena's was TOO MUCHEEY. Michael Kors thought it was very "Sample Sale" (she's right). And Melissa's white too-short/too-tight dress with bland black jacket was...THE WORST. In my eyes. However. Melissa stayed and Elena was OUT.








Season 10 designers Melissa Fleis (top photo)and Elena Slivnyak (bottom)--Project Runway Season 10





Was this a case of the judges looking at the overall designs from the entire season and thinking "Let's keep Melissa" or was Elena's really the worst? I think the former and not the latter...Oh well, viewers rejoice--or take comfort in knowing that...we'll most likely see Elena on Project Runway All Stars Season 3. I am sure of it.



If you want to know how I REALLY FEEL, continue reading...



























Rock-a-Bye-Runway



Last night's "Project Runway" was one of those episodes that left me
saying "Wh-Wh-What?", mainly because a designer stayed, even though in
my eyes they did the worst job. In addition, I think it was one of the
first times a designer was NOT eliminated for doing Safe and Boring. The
episode left me quite dumbfounded, trying to justify in my mind the
outcome. All I could think is that the judges looked at the designers'
overall work as opposed to the actual design for THIS challenge at hand.
And they always say they do not do that — but it's obvious they do.
There's more that irked me — and yes, things that I LOVED — so, allow me
to give my "Nick Two Cents" for this week.



Oh Baby!



There are only six designers left on this season and therefore they
are feeling the pressure as they get closer to the grand prize. This
week, they all go to a Babies"R"Us store, where Heidi and Tim are
waiting. It doesn't take a brain surgeon to guess what this challenge
will be. Heidi has a new line of affordable baby clothing, "Truly
Scrumptious", that sells exclusively at Babies"R"Us. The challenge this
week is to create a look for this line that will then, be manufactured
and sold at "Babies 'R' Us". Heidi tells the designers that there will
be 2 winning looks — one boy and one girl — and they only have one day
to do it.





Why Do I Care What The Mommies Like to Wear?

The designers' tepid yet pretending-to-be-excited reactions are
priceless. Before they can run out and say "I'm Outta Here!", the
dreaded velvet bag comes out and each designer is "assigned" their baby
models and respective moms. Each designer confers with the moms as to
what their needs and style ideas are for their toddlers. The mom's are
also describing their own styles, which makes me wonder, "Why do I care
what YOU like to wear..." unless (cue the dramatic music in my brain)
there might be a TWIST later and they have to design for the mommies too
(not my first time at the "'Project Runway' Rodeo"). The only thing
that's memorable from this consultation is when Nanci (Christopher's
baby momma) says "Dior uses a lot of tulle" in talking about the
children's clothes. In case y'all are not aware, a "Baby Dior" tulle
dress — for a BABY — goes for $3,680. I instantly think "Oh no, this
one's a DIVA!" Later we find out, she was.





Faux Babies...Why?

The designers head back to Parsons where Ms. Klum left them dossiers,
fabric, notions and trims from her "Truly Scrumptious" collection so
their creations can coordinate with the rest of her line. There are also
toddler body forms and a "special surprise": Lifelike Crying Baby
Dolls. Yeah, the kind those "16 and Pregnant" girls use. They cry, cry
and cry; when they need to be fed, rocked or diaper changed. Is this
really necessary, I wonder? The explanation — from Poppa Tim — was that
they are there so the designers know "what goes into creating baby
clothes." I don't even think he believed what he said...



Click HERE to continue reading my "Rock-a-Bye-Runway" Blog on mylifetime.com


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