Fashion Dress in The Present: Charlie Chaplin
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Showing posts with label Charlie Chaplin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Charlie Chaplin. Show all posts

Chicago International Film Festival Celebrates 100 Years of Chaplin

The Chicago International Film Festivalgot commemorative last night by bringing Charlie Chaplin biographer David Robinson for a discussion called “Centenary of the Tramp,” about the 100th anniversary of Chaplin's entrance to the filmmaking industry.



Robinson, author of Chaplin: His Life and Art, which formed the basis for the 1992 biopic starring Robert Downey, Jr., gave a collegial lesson, PowerPoint and all, about Chaplin's early life and his first forays into the movies. He showed rare slides of a young Chaplin on the London stage, as a young side character in Sherlock Holmes stage shows, as a prestigious West End actor at the age of 16, and others before he left for America in 1913.

Robinson knew his venue, though, and quickly moved to Chaplin's early film career, with some slides of his first screen appearance in Makinga Living, as a 25-year-old Keystone Comedy Company player in 1914.

As it's impossible to talk about Chaplin without discussing his Little Tramp character, Robinson focused the rest of his talk on a more important anniversary, the 99
thof the Tramp's first screen credit, in Kid Auto Races at Venice, which Robinson screened for the audience.



As a film, Kid Auto Races at Venice is nothing fancy, which Robinson admitted before showing it, but it's a fascinating historical document nonetheless. Chaplin's Tramp look is basically fully formed, but his mannerisms are not quite to where they would be. He's more restrained, less fluid than he would later be, and his antics are subdued, with the entire plot of the six-minute short revolving around Chaplin trying to hog the camera from a group of newsreel cameramen at a children's boxcar race. It's silly but obviously an early attempt at something that would be important without being important in any way beyond historical firsts.

It turns out that first showing of Chaplin's signature creation wasn't a product of months of hard work and character building, but rather something he pulled from the top of his head when asked by the studio to create a comedic character on the fly. He went to the wardrobe department and pulled out the “baggy pants, tight coat, small hat, big shoes” before applying his goofy mustache and eyebrows, Robinson said, which were all an attempt to make the youthful Chaplin look much older.

Robinson said the character wasn't the “lovable” person he would later become in films like the romantic, sentimental City Lights. In his earliest appearances, the Tramp was actually sometimes a villainous man, and oftentimes not even exactly what one would consider a tramp, that poor, ragged vagabond guy.

“Tramps don't usually give tips,” Robinson said after he showed a clip of a drunken Tramp at a country club bar. He also sometimes rode a motorcycle, had upper crust friends, and a comfortable family life, depending on which early short films you watch, Robinson said.

But, Robinson said, one primary theme remained true of virtually all of Chaplin's Tramp pictures: He was “always struggling to belong to conventional society.” Regardless of his starting point in his films, the Tramp was always something of an outsider, a goofball that can't quite crack social norms.

Robinson ended the night with a showing of one of Chaplin's earliest directorial efforts, The Immigrant, which showed off his technical chops and the lovable, destitute version of the Tramp character we recognize. The short mostly takes place on a boat to American shores, and the camera wobbles back and forth as the “waves” hit the boat, nauseating the passengers, including one bearded man who is perpetually on the verge of vomiting on Chaplin. The dining room aboard the boat is a masterful set piece, a possibly hydraulically lifted room – some sort of physical manipulation is being done to it, whether it's mechanical in nature or not – that allows Chaplin to roll all over the floor, toss about atop other passengers, and have a bowl of gruel shift from the Tramp to his nauseated friend and back again. It's a beautiful, vibrant piece of technical filmmaking from a director known more for his acting and sentimentality than anything.


And now we get to be excited every year, because for a long time to come, each calendar shift will mark a new 100th anniversary for the Tramp.

Figure Skating Costume Minute: 2012 Skate Canada International--The Men!



Charlie Chaplin, A Torredor, A Sorcerer, Blouson Shirts and Many Vests...Yes, it's THE MEN:






Costumed Boys: (left to right) Silver medalist Patrick Chan from Canada, Gold medalist Javier
Fernandez from Spain and Bronze medalist Nobunari Oda from Japan stand
on the podium after the 2012 Skate Canada International Men's Competition, ISU Grand Prix of Figure Skating at WFCU
Centre Windsor, Canada.



In my last post, I discussed the LADIES and the costumes they "unveiled" at the 2012 Skate Canada International ISU Grand Prix of Figure Skating competition, which occurred this past weekend in Windsor Ontario Canada. So, now, it's time to talk about the MEN! Since this is the second of the Grand Prix of Figure Skating 2012 series, this is also the first time a lot of these skaters are debuting their programs for this new season--as well as their costumes.




Let's begin with Canada's Patrick Chan:







Patrick Chan came in as the Defending World Champion and Gold Medalist from Skate Canada 2011. Above is what he wore for his Short Program to Rachmaninoff's "Elegie in E Flat Minor". It was deep blue-colored lightly beaded blouson long sleeve top with a plunging neckline (Oh Patrick!) with attached convertible collar and cascade ruffles.





The top is very similar to what he wore last season at Skate Canada for his Long Program to "Concierto de Aranjuez" (Michelle Kwan's song thank you VERY MUCH!). It seems that Patrick loves a good blouson. Getting back to the current new-and-improved Short Program blouse costume: Since his music was Classical, I think he was trying to vibe a classic and romantic look and he even had a lace back detail which is A LOT of look for Patrick. I did LOVE the pants. They fit him PERFECTLY and I liked how they had the beaded tuxedo stripe down the side, bringing in the lightly beaded detail from the top.



This is what he wore at last year's Skate Canada 2011 and for his Short Program to "Take Five":



Oh yes, Patrick also LOVES a good vest...so much so that for this year's Long Program, he couldn't stay away from another vest:





Chan skated his Long Program to Puccini's "La Bohème". The story of this very famous opera, involves young bohemians living in Paris in the 1840s. It was nice that he went "Period Costume"-friendly with this and I could just hear him telling his costume designer to "PLEASE, PLEASE MAKE ME A VEST...'cause I REALLY REALLY like them!". I like the colors and style of his curved neckline waistcoat (very 1840s), but the white blouse with lacing is what throws me off.  He looks more "Pirates of Penzance" as opposed to Paris 1840s Boho.






Above is what men wore in 1840s Paris and a male lead in the opera "La Bohème". 





All in all, I feel that he could have been more creative and unique with his Free Skate costume. I will never, ever be a fan of a costume that looks like you could buy it at the corner drug store. For me, he should have continued on the style of his short program costume, something not as reverential and with a bit more style.






Javier Fernández of Spain: The Gold Medal winner from 2012 Skate Canada International skated his Short Program to "The Mask of Zorro" and of course, it was a red-and-black --very Latino! But it wasn't "Period" Mask of Zorro but rather a modern interpretation-costume wise. I really like this look. It is exactly what I was talking about above and what Patrick Chan failed to do. You understand the relation to his music but it isn't so obvious.





For his Long Program to "Charlie Chaplin Medley", he wore this costume above featuring that DREADED vest (dreaded to me, because it's SO expected) those male figure skaters LOVE; wing-tip collar shirt, tie and pleated pants.





But in this case, it would be hard not to take such a direct interpretation of Charlie Chaplin. I liked the combination of baggy pants and tight waistcoat. I think he looks good. Slim and modern. It would have nice to see a very shrunken jacket to finish the entire outfit off but I get that it might have been restricting when it came time to accomplish his fab jumps! Japanese skater Nobunari Oda did a "Charlie Chaplin" look for his 2009-2010 Season Long Program, using that "shrunken jacket" suggestion of mine, and I think this worked well:





Now, speaking of Nobunari...





Nobunari Oda of Japan: Nobunari skated his Short Program "The New Moon in the Old Moon's Arms" wearing this costume. It's a GOOD mess, rather campy and so "Blades of Glory". I love that a male figure skater can sometimes just go "old school" and dress like this. It is a BIG trend among the male Japanese figure skaters and I love it!





For his Long Program to Disney's "The Sorcerer's Apprentice" and "Daphne et Chloe", Oda wore this embroidered cropped lapel'ed "robe" cinched at the waist with red sequin fabric. I really liked this too.





There were kimono-like elements to the wrapping of the top and I enjoyed the pop of color (maybe an homage to Mickey and his red robe above?) and overall, it had that "Sorcerer's" whimsy to it. Good job Nobunari!









Takahito Mura of Japan: Takahito skated his Short Program to "Shogun" so naturally there were elements of  the movie's costumes as well as references to Samurai warriors. Notice the striped motif in the front part, the stiffened shoulders, and oversized sleeves. But of course, there had to be some diamante trim for a little "figure skating" bling-bling.





Takahito skated his Long Program to "Malagueña" and he went all out Spanish Bullfighter Fabulous. I LOVE the very large jeweled multicolored stones on the jacket and then at the side of his pants. The red cummerbund is the right width and the very fitted shape of the top finishes off that overall "Sleek Toreador" look. The only (semi) negative is the shirt.





I don't know why, but there is something about that shirt that looks odd--with the rest of this very luxe looking costume. The shirt says "I just bought it at the Macy's INC section" but the rest of it says "This cost me $5,000 to custom-make!". Other than that: Muy Bueno Takahito!



***Next up: More 2012 Skate Canada International Figure Skating Costume "Two Cents"--The PAIRS and Ice Dance!


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