MILAN — When she began creating her Tribute collection, an ode to the work of her brother, Gianni Versace, that would become her spring women’s wear show, Donatella Versace knew what people were going to think. Not of the clothes; of the rationale behind the clothes.
She knew the rumors that have been roiling the fashion world since January. “Rumors,” she said, sitting on a dark, squashy sofa in an opulent reception room in the Versace Palazzo on Via Gesù a few days before the show, rolling eyes rimmed in dark shadow and making exaggerated quote marks with her fingers. “Oh: rumors.”
She knew people had been saying that she was going to step aside as designer and name a successor. First it was Riccardo Tisci (that was after he resigned from his job at Givenchy); then Virgil Abloh; and, as of this week, during the London shows, Kim Jones, men’s wear designer at Louis Vuitton. The front row had been abuzz with the whispers. She knew the risks: that a show premised on nostalgia would be seen as a farewell, a sign that, at 62, her era was over. That it would fuel the addictive speculation that has become the new normal in the fashion world, where designers come and go from brands so often that a month without some gossip about creative musical chairs has started to feel like a month gone cold turkey.
But she decided to do it anyway. Not as a goodbye. As a statement about what’s next. And yes, there are multiple interpretations attached to that phrase. This is, after all, a brand that has specialized in the peekaboo dress.
It has been 20 years since Mr. Versace was shot and killed on the steps of his Miami Beach mansion, and the world has been busy mining his narrative in time for the anniversary: FX’s “American Crime Story” has a Versace series in the works starring Penélope Cruz as Donatella and Edgar Ramirez as Gianni, set to air early next year; starting next month FarFetch is selling a selection of 500 Gianni-era Versace pieces curated by William Vintage.
“Over the years I’ve seen so many homages to Gianni Versace and direct reference to Gianni Versace,” she said. “But I didn’t have the courage to do it myself. I was always afraid to touch the work of Gianni. I thought I would be criticized: ‘She isn’t Gianni.’ I thought I was going to fail. I mean, I did fail for a while! But then I realized: I was there for all of it. And the younger girls — Kendall, Gigi — kept asking what it was all about. Because you know, he died before there was social media.”
post by: https://www.nytimes.com
