Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week Spring 2012: John Galliano

Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week Spring 2012: John Galliano

Galliano Without Galliano...

Swashbuckling Boys: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

Last week, The Fashion House of John Galliano showed the first Menswear Collection done without the name behind the brand. Galliano, in fact, was in court--in Paris--around the same time trying to give his version of what happened that fateful night and well, give his excuses for why he said the terrible things he said. In emotional testimony, Galliano blamed pressures of a pitiless industry for pushing him off the brink and into prescription drugs and alcohol addictions.

But the House that is owned by Dior President and CEO Sydney Toledano wanted none of that. Instead, the focus was on the collection designed by Galliano longtime collaborator Bill Gaytten, who has been with the company for over 20 years and in fact is still part of the Dior Design Team. Here's the ironic part of the Galliano Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: A lot of it looked as if it was an Ode to Galliano himself; one entire section seemed very "Galliano as The Muse": The Dandy hats with feathers, the open vests under bare torsos, the swashbuckling stylings, all of it. In fact, at the end, it was as if most of the Models were serious John Galliano doppelgangers--apologetically.

There were 4 distinct categories of the show: The John Galliano Bohemian Swashbuckler, The Effeminate School Boy, The Hipster in Silk PJ's and The Toreador Rocker Bad Boy.

Glee Chic: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This section of the "Geek-Chic School Boys" was great. I loved the color combination (not a surprise) and the soft pastels. Great ties as well. It was VERY "Harry Potter" meets "Glee".

Hipsters in PJ's: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This was the weakest section to me. It was almost like they decided "Hey, we need to sell some John Galliano Underwear to keep this House in the black, so send some guys down the runway in their skivvies". Some look almost saggy, like they'd been washed one too many times. But I guess, after seeing those silk pajama pants at D&G, it's now officially a "Menswear Spring 2012" Trend. Boys: Go get some silk printed pajama pants ASAP!

Bullfighter Rock-On: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

To me this was the strongest section. I loved the mix of Toreador chic and cool Rocker Boy. Skinny pants, pointed shoes, strong boxy jackets, lots of Toreador-like embellishments. I felt the new designer's voice was most apparent here and since this was the close of the show maybe it was to demonstrate the "new" House of John Galliano...without Galliano.

Click Below for the Full Runway Video of John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012:

Runway Report: Milan Men's Fashion Week D&G Spring 2012

Runway Report: Milan Men's Fashion Week D&G Spring 2012

Foulard Power!

St. Tropez Brunch: D&G Menswear Spring 2012

The design duo of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana showed their latest offering for the MENSSSES during Milan Menswear Spring 2012 Fashion Week for both their lines, including the lower D&G line which I am spotlighting here. For Spring 2012, it was all about the foulard--or printed scarf--it seemed to be the focal point and inspiration for this collection. Lots of silk fabrics, a relaxed proportion and silhouette.

Hugh Hefner Meets 80's Versace Poster Boy: D&G Menswear Spring 2012

Low-slung and LONG crotch/rise were the operative words here in terms of pants and trousers and jeans; the "carrot" style (long dropped crotch, loose at the hips, more fitted toward the leg and ankle) is still the go to look for D&G. Loving the colored driving moccasins and Top-Sider-esque shoe styles (just like in the Dsquared2 Spring 2012 Collection).

Vintage (early 1990's) Versace Ad, featuring Supermodels Nadege, Helena Christensen and a VERY young Niki Taylor

The printed shirts are VERY Versace circa 1992. I had a BLOUSON silk printed jacket back in the day (just like the one below at the far right) and I think it was sold in a "Lawn" sale many many many years ago. Now, I'm bummed I didn't keep it!

PJ's For The Summer: D & G Menswear Spring 2012

And if Domenico and Stefano have their way, it's NO to Speedo and Si, to silk printed "Board Shorts" with denim waistbands come next Spring/Summer 2012. These silk boxer/board shorts were very cute but they reminded me of pajamas one would have chopped off and turned into shorts (maybe that's the point NICK!!!). Well, at least that's what they would look like on me if I ever attempted that look. I'll leave that to you; the young Euro Boys...

Click Below for Full Runway Video of D & G Spring 2012:

Runway Report: Dsquared² Menswear Spring 2012

Runway Report: Dsquared² Menswear Spring 2012

Euro Prepster Meets Mykonos Pool Boys Meets Finnish Fishermen...Welcome to Dsquared2 Menswear Collection Spring 2012

The EuroBoy Express: Dsquared2 Menswear Spring 2012 Collection

The Milan Menswear Spring 2012 (yeah, that's NEXT YEAR!) Collections are happening right now--and so it is my duty to give my readers some of the Beefcake-y, HOT, OMG Look At His Six-Pack...Ooops, I mean, respectable Fashion Insider Two Cents on the highlights of this current season. Up first, the Dsquared2 Collection from those kooky Canadian twins, Dean and Dan Caten.

Would Like Cucumber Water: Dsquared2 Menswear Spring 2012 Collection

Now, usually, I try and stay "professional" and not be that person--when reviewing a collection--and say the dreaded "Oh I TOTALLY would wear that..." or "Oh that's soooo UGLY, I would NEVER wear that!" as we all know that's NOT THE POINT. Designers are not really showing that for YOU and YOU may not be their "market" and so on and so forth. But...I TOTALLY would wear A LOT of this Spring 2012 Collection!!!! Totally.

Thank Goodness Mommy and Daddy Left Me Some Money: Dsquared2 Menswear Spring 2012 Collection

From the moment I first saw the runway images, I pressed PRINT on my Computer Printer and now, they are on my wall as my "inspiration" for all the various "looks" I will be (trying) to give on my upcoming trip to Europe! Especially the three looks above. Even David Paul, my NIKOLAKI partner-in-crime said "Oh Dear Nick, that is SOOOO YOU!" Now, yes, A) I wish I was 6' 3" , and B) had a size 28" waist like these 19-year-old models but alas, I am not. I will, however, still somehow try and use these as a "jumping off" inspiration point. Love the cropped brightly colored pants. I would wear them. The leather sandals. Check. The Riding shoes with fuchsia pants and double-breasted jacket look. Check.

LOVE!!!

However...you probably would NEVER catch me wearing this little ensemble:

Welcome to Santorini: Dsquared2 Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: One Question--Will I get six pack abs if I purchase these???

The boys from Dsquared2 showed their typical hot-and-sexy looks for Spring 2012, adding lots of color, some "Euro Trust Fund-er" looks as well as playing with their "Is He a Gay Mountain Climber? Or Isn't He?" leitmotif. This time around, that section was covered by Finnish-looking sons of fishermen ready to catch some fish, drink some vodka and then have a good time later...with whomever is within 5 feet of them. Whomever...

Fish and Vodka: Dsquared2 Menswear Spring 2012 Collection

Tim Blanks, of Style.com, summed up the collection this way in the introduction of his Review of the collection:
Dean and Dan Caten are twenty-first-century vaudevillians, incapable of presenting a new collection without couching it in a saucy variety show. Today's revolving stage coughed up some sexy Scandinavian fisherman, a buffet of Mykonos beefcake, a couple of lower-the-temperature Roman ragazzi, a handful of droogy rockers, and Kazaky, four dizzy queens from the Ukraine whose post-Gaga get-outta-my-way-bitch shtick involved a gravity-defying dance routine performed in skintight leather pants and sky-high heels. Phew! Oh, there were some clothes shown, too.

Click Below for the Videos of the Dsquared2 Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: