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Purvi Doshi at Art Hearts Fashion; New York Fashion Week 2017

Yes the lure of the long haul flight this week sees me in New York for the very first time - yes what a year it has been. Once again I am on assignment shooting for White Caviar Life; though right now that also includes us attending some New York Fashion Week shows which I am able to put out as soon as I can. Yes take an afternoon nap whenever you can, it really helps! But enough of the preamble; tonight we were down at the Angel Orensanz Center in Norfolk Street which is a super funky historic church building. Although there were three parades and a blistering electronic violin performance opening by Sarah Charness; I want to kick off my coverage with the beautiful, colourful and sustainability crafted garments by Purvi Doshi from India. She is a proponent of slow and eco friendly fashion which is certainly something we need a lot more of. The theme for the range was living peacefully together with nature. I thought the hand stitched designs and elaborate embroidery just oh so romantic. But enough of me, here's my shots from the runway so you can decide for yourselves - useful links at the bottom of the page; and more fashion to come, so stay tuned - follow on Facebook too!
Richly embroidered long sleeve crop top with matching maxi skirt. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Skirt and pull over top. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Back detail, dress and jacket off shoulder. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Skirt with matching embroidered blouse. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Jacket crop-top and pants. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Beautifully embroidered jacket. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Dress, mirrored embellishments and embroidered animals. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Short embroidered dress and long coat. Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Models together; Purvi Doshi shows at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.
Purvi Doshi takes a bow after her show at New York Fashion Week with Art Hearts Fashion. Photography by Kent Johnson for Street Fashion Sydney.

https://www.purvidoshi.com/
http://artheartsfashion.com/new-york/

Telling Stories in Pictures all over..
Kent Johnson, Sydney, Australia.
0433 796 863

ROYAL COUTURE.....Pippa Middleton Wedding: Wedding Gown, Best Dressed & "Uh Oh" Guests!




 Wedding Gorgeous: Pippa Middleton and James Matthews smile after their wedding--St. Marks Church Englefield England



Pippa Middleton--the sister of Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, married hedge fund manager and former professional racing driver, James Matthews on Saturday at a glorious wedding fitting a royal--or "Royal Adjacent". Pippa might not really be a royal but because of her very close approximation to one, I am placing her--and her wedding--in this Royal Couture blog. So let's discuss the wedding and more importantly, the Wedding Couture beginning with Pippa's wedding dress and then some of the guests...



The Dress:



Pippa Gown: Pippa Middleton chose a "Princess"/A-line shaped ballgown style for her wedding day. The handmade gown of lace and pearls was designed by British designer Giles Deacon. The dress was done in a manner that would not show any seams--by overlapping the lace--by hand--meticulously over the many seams that are in a gown of this silhouette. The dress featured a full ballgown skirt shape and UBER fitted drop-waist torso/bustier. It also had a high neckline, drop shoulder sleeve detail and heart-shaped semi-open back.






 British designer Giles Deacon






Giles Deacon Couture Fall/Winter 2016, modeled by model Anna Cleveland, daughter of famed 70's Supermodel Pat Cleveland 



Giles is said to have put on hold all his fashion business for the last few months to concentrate on Pippa's one-of-a-kind gown. His most recent "Couture" collection was for Fall/Winter 2016 and it showed glorious, billowing handmade gowns with exquisite applique detail. Pippa's wedding dress would probably cost in the realm of $75,000-$100,000, at least that would be the going price for an actual Haute Couture gown from the likes of Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Chanel or Dior. No news if she possibly got a "discount" for all the press he would receive.



The Veil:




The veil--of tulle and pearls--was done by famed milliner Stephen Jones.





Sister Fixing: Pippa's sister, Catherine the Duchess of Cambridge, was seen fixing Pippa's tulle-and-pearl veil as she was about to enter the church ceremony, just making sure that it was perfect





Shape Similar: Pippa's lace and pearl wedding gown was similar in shape to the iconic Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton wedding dress worn by her sister Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge






Sealed with a Kiss: Pippa Middleton and James Matthews as they emerge from their church wedding ceremony with their "Flower girls and boys", including William and Kate's children Prince George (second from right) and Princess Charlotte--St. Marks Church, Englefield England



Page Boys and Girls:



Stylish George: Prince George (center), giving a "look" to the photographers--and looking very much like his father when William was his age. Prince George looked super cute in a white Peter Pan collared shirt with mini pintucks and emerald green silk shantung knickers.







Royal Style:





Mommie Kate: Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge looked chic and wedding appropriate in a dusty rose/light salmon colored silk crepe dress from Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton. Her dress was a lady-like tea-length and featured a v-neckline, gathered Bishop sleeves, fitted midriff and pleated front skirt details. Her daughter Princess Charlotte looked ADORABLE in her gathered flower girl dress, with fresh flower headdress and pink cummerbund.






I have to say that Catherine looked very "Wallis Simpson Duchess of Windsor"-like in this 30's-like dress.








Dapper Brothers: Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and his brother Prince Harry in their tailcoat/morning coat ensembles. 



Guests:



Princess Eugenie, daughter of Prince Andrew and Sarah, Duchess of York--(seen here with her boyfriend Jack Brooksbank) wore this navy blue A-line shaped knee-length dress from French designer Paule Ka. The cotton dress features a "split-shoulder" neckline and retails for $1,014 HERE. For Pippa's wedding she decided to "play it safe" as opposed to her head-turning look at Kate's wedding.





Vanilla Yellow Donna: British actress--and aspiring fashion designer--Donna Air (who is on-off girlfriend to Pippa's hottie bearded brother James for the last four years)--attended the wedding in this lemon yellow/cream coat-dress from UK designer Emilia Wickstead Spring/Summer 2017 collection. Lots of fashion-watchers criticized her for saying that she should not have worn WHITE (a No-No as a wedding guest) but I have to disagree with these wanna-be-fashion experts...this coat-dress is NOT white and in fact more of a "vanilla yellow"-like color. I liked it! It was demure, elegant and lady-like. I also loved the matching hat and those fabulous ankle strapped pumps. The magenta colored clutch added a respite from all the vanilla/lemon yellow. Did I mention that this WAS NOT WHITE. OK. Thank you.





Tartan: A couple of male guests opted for tartan pants as part of their tailcoat ensembles. And I say "Go On Boys!". Love the tartan, love the statement and even though, yes, I know as a guest of a wedding, it really isn't about you but...I love when (especially) male guests GIVE YOU FASHION!





Flower Prints and Hats: These two guests stood out for their Wedding Fab printed dresses, perfect for a Spring/Summer wedding. I love the canary yellow flower printed dress on the left as well as the blue one on the right. Both looks are great examples of chic Wedding Guest Style, especially for a May wedding. If I had to chose my favorite of the two, it would be the blue; the waist-tie shirt dress style was elegant, fun and I loved the feminine ruffle details.





Fab Dressed: These two guests get my Wedding Guest Best Dressed points--the left one, for that fab pheasant feather-topped hat and blue-and-white ensemble as well as those navy-and-white pumps. I also loved the guest on the right in the pink pleated silk dress with Bishop sleeves and delicately appliqued detail. The gold pumps were a super chic addition.





Uh No Part One: Two female wedding guests that were not on my Best Dressed List were these printed ladies. Now, there's a way to do printed dresses for a wedding (scroll above) and this is a way to not do it. The guest on the left wore this drab Autumn-like printed dress that not only, looked dowdy but also said "I'm not happy at this wedding". And then, somehow, in the middle of May, the guest on the right thought it was fine to bring out her gray fur chubby/mini coat. All I can say is #GURL ! But kids, these two weren't the only ones who went Wedding Koo Koo Couture...







Happy Hands At Home Dress and Lifesaver Fruit Dress Guest: Well, look what we have here--the guest on the left looks as if she took her old Laura Ashley 80's bed sheet or window drapes and felt fine in making a dress out of it. And then, in addition, decided an iridescent organza shawl would make a fine accessory. Speaking of accessories, what in the name of the FASHION GODS are those putrid brown shoes??? Let's move on to the guest on the right--I give this woman points for being "sassy" in this colorful striped ensemble. And the big hat screams "I'm a good friend of the Gays" and I will bet a couple of British pounds that she's a hoot at the open bar, but...this is just too 1992 for me. Especially those "Lifesaver Fruit Flavor"-like buttons.



Oh well, at least, I can still go back to this gorgeous dress:






Congratulations to the Happy Couple--Pippa Middleton and James Matthews!

XMAS GOODIES: Something For Everyone!


H & A DRESS TO IMPRESS, Dar es Salaam,  has a beautiful collection of 50's style frocks! A perfect look for Xmas day church service and lunch with family or friends


Give your already beautiful face a lift with ATSOKO, Dar es Salaam, makeup and paint your nails red for the seasonal look


For those spending time in cold countries here's a bright and stylish kitenge winter coat from the same design house!


DOMINIKI GODFREY, Dar es Salaam, caps are ideal for him and perfect for sailing to the beach.


Xmas in the tropics is all about sun, sea and fun



HUNTER BLUE, Slipway, Dar es Salaam is closing down, so hurry on for the most unique clothes, accessories and bags before Xmas.




Not on leave this Xmas, then cheer yourself up with a pair of Mary Jane's from ESTILE AFFAIRS, Dar es Salaam Free Market, 1st Floor, Oysterbay, Dar es Salaam



SONYA KASHMIRI, London, bags on order before the 22nd December 2016



COCO LILI DAR ES SALAAM is the most sophisticated office couture brand to hit East Africa this year.  Order by email if you are in East Africa and look the part at your office Xmas parties.


POOJA JESHANG, London, sparkles with her handmade glitter bags which are set for sale on ETSY 


For original and handcrafted Xmas decoration pop into THE GREEN ROOM, Slipway, Dar es Salaam 


FASHION TIPS


Support local designers this Xmas and buy their collections such as these above seen fresh from the runway of Swahili Fashion Week 2016

BIJOUX TRENDY

Dar Free Market, Oysterbay, Dar es Salaam

Under Mercury Vapours

Under Mercury Vapours, Title Shot. Vishmi wears ROLLA'S Camille Wrap Dress in Floral print, Old School Vans skate shoes. photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.Still life, old church at night, grand columns.. Photo by Kent Johnson.Traveller Palm, still life composition and photograph by Kent Johnson.With movement. Vishmi wears photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.Born from the shadow, Vishmi wears ROLLA'S Eastcoast Flare Overall; photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.Casual stance, Vishmi wears ROLLA'S Eastcoast Flare Overall; photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.Vishmi wears Abrand Jeans Sleeveless Check Shirt  ROLLA'S Dusters Short in Astral blue, Vans Old Skool Sneakers; photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.Portrait, Vishmi wears Abrand Jeans Sleeveless Check Shirt  ROLLA'S Dusters Short in Astral blue, Vans Old Skool Sneakers; photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.B&W photo Vishmi wears Dr Martens and White Skivy Models Own, ROLLA'S Eastcoast Flare Overall, photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.He wears, Levi's Jeans & Commuter Jacket, AKUBRA Hat. Photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.Vishmi wears Dr Martens and White Skivy Models Own, ROLLA'S Eastcoast Flare Overall, photographed for Street Fashion Sydney by Kent Johnson.

Under Mercury Vapours - Magazine layout..
Under Mercury Vapours. A fashion story, P1-2 By Kent Johnson.
Under Mercury Vapours. A fashion story, P3-4. Photography by Kent Johnson.
Under Mercury Vapours. A fashion story, P5-6. Photography by Kent Johnson.
Under Mercury Vapours. A fashion story, P7-8. Photography by Kent Johnson.
Under Mercury Vapours. A fashion story, P9-10. Photography by Kent Johnson.
Under Mercury Vapours. A fashion story, P11-12. Photography by Kent Johnson.

I have long been in love with this location and wanted to photograph there, although until recently it has not been accessible in the way it was for our photoshoot. I also wanted to keep it simple; energy, connection, emotion, that is the story I am after. So I am very grateful to Vishmi for taking the 'risk' of shooting with me in such a quiet and personal manner. We had an enjoyable time (crew-less but not clueless..) and it all happened reasonably quickly, the magic of the shoot unfolding quite seamlessly. The still life shots of the location were made during the site's transitional phases in the weeks preceding our shoot. You have to keep an eye on things! The idea for the title is from the gas in the street lights that give a yellow cast, they are Mercury Vapour lamps - or at least they used to be..

Thanks to Portobello PR for the great clobber.

Photographer/Stylist - Kent Johnson
Model - Vishmi Helaratne
Layout & Design - Kent Johnson

ROLLA'S - Camille Wrap Dress - Floral
Dr Martens - Models Own
White Skivy - Models Own
ROLLA'S Eastcoast Flare Overall in Salty Rain
Dr Martens Boots - Models Own
Abrand Jeans - A. Sleeveless Shirt - Check
ROLLA'S - Dusters Short - Astral blue
Vans Old Skool Sneakers
He wears, Levi's Jeans & Commuter Jacket, AKUBRA Hat.


Telling Stories in Pictures all over Sydney..
Kent Johnson, Sydney, Australia.
0433 796 863

PROJECT RUNWAY RECAPS....."Project Runway" Season 14 Recaps: Episode 11 Avant-garde Challenge Blog Recap!






 Is This Avant-garde: Season 11 "Project Runway" Episode 11 "Avant-garde Challenge"



This past week's challenge on Lifetime Network's Season 14 "Project Runway" was the Avant-garde Challenge. Fans and viewers of the show always look forward to this challenge since, besides the "Unconventional" one, this really shows how creative the designers can be and how their design boundaries can be pushed.






The Bridge Is Your Inspiration: Tim Gunn introduces this season's Avant-garde Challenge overlooking the Queensboro Bridge--Season 14 "Project Runway Episode 11




Iconic NYC bridges were the inspiration...




Brooklyn Bridge






Manhattan Bridge






 Queensboro Bridge





The designers were also to create 3D prints as detail for the Avant-garde designs--using a Cube 3D printer...As a novice of 3D printing and what can be done, I am wowed every time I see the technology up close...






Earlier this year, I had the privilege of hosting a fashion event at the Las Vegas Computer Electronics Show/CES 2015 and saw this wonderful design, the "3D Spider Dress" by Anouk Wipprecht which was created using Intel 3D Printing technology



Back to the so-called Avant-garde Runway...



Not Avant-garde Judging: During the runway critique, the judges were a little confusing with their take on the Avant-garde creations from this season's remaining designers. Most of the designs were NOT Avant-garde and yet, the judges were praising them for how "Pretty" and "Red Carpet Perfect" some were. Excuse me, but I thought this was an Avant-garde Challenge NOT a Red Carpet one...



Now, in case you need a refresher course on WHAT AVANT-GARDE should look like...here's a peak:




Comme Des Garcons by Rei Kawakubo Spring 2016








 (L to R) Commes Des Garcons by Rei Kawakubo Fall 2015, Spring 2015










 (L to R) Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015, Fall 2015








 Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2015





Now that you have seen that, we can continue with what was NOT Avant-garde on the runway in this past week's "Project Runway" episode:



 Candice Cuoco: Candice's strapless mermaid-shaped gown was very elegant and pretty, as some of the judges said. And in fact Guest Judge Mel B said she would wear it to an upcoming an event. But it wasn't Avant-garde, so for me it failed at the challenge. But, yes, it was quite Flamenco pretty! I do wonder if this center back panel on the models behind...






Back Ooopsie: Was a last-minute addition since it was probably too tight. I would bet my prized pattern shears on it!





Edmond Newton: Once again, a very pretty design but not really Avant-garde. I liked how he used the "X's" of his Queensboro Bridge inspiration and his 3D prints. But this was Avant-garde Lite.





Kelly Dempsey: Kelly's design was the well deserved winner. So at least the judges got that right! This was certainly the closest thing to an actual Avant-garde design. The geometric shape was jarring yet very reminiscent of the bridges' structure and the front torso straps were a great homage to the spider web-like cables of the Brooklyn Bridge.



The Bottom:



Ashley Nell Tipton: Ashley's "Wonder Woman-Meets-Church Choir" creation had drama, certainly. But A) Not Avant-garde and B) those pants were a mess:






Waaaay Too Tight: rippling that originates from the inseam and crotch/rise is Design School 101 Too Tight Pant Fit





Merline Labissiere: Merline--a student of architecture and one of the only designers this season whose aesthetic leans toward being slightly "avant-garde"--should have had this challenge in the bag. But she was OUT. This was uninspired, not Avant-garde and almost somewhat wearable. Also, as Heidi pointed out, the bottom section was very reminiscent of...






Kini Zamora of Season 13 Avant-garde design (now THAT'S Avant-garde, kids!)





And now, here's my RECAP for this past week's episode--Read all I have to say about the episode and the NOT-SO Avant-garde designs...









Season 14, Episode 11: A Bridge Not Far Enough




''Pretty." "Feminine." "Perfect for a red carpet
event." These were all comments from the judges to some of the creations
that came down the runway in this week's episode. There’s only a
teeny-tiny problem: these SHOULDN’T BE the comments you want to hear
when critiquing an avant-garde challenge. But here we were. This week’s
challenge is always supposed to be a highlight of the “Project Runway”
season, showcasing the limitless level of creativity that the designers
can achieve. Sadly, this wasn't the case. What happened? How did four
out of the five designers get it so avant-garde wrong, and more
importantly, what Kool-Aid were the judges drinking? Time to investigate
and recap.





The episode begins with the top five
designers, Edmond being the only male left. They discuss Swapnil (who
was given the auf last week) and what a shame that he gave up so soon. I
know that there’s a lot of web chatter about Swapnil and whether or not
he was edited to seem unproductive. However, the fact that these
designers are reiterating the “he gave up” narrative, makes me think
that, in fact, it wasn’t editing.





Heidi meets up
with the designers on the runway stage, telling them that for the next
challenge that “they are going to bring some NY landmarks to life…in
3D!” as she puts on a pair of 3D glasses. The designers join Tim at a
location overlooking the Queensboro Bridge to introduce the challenge:
Create an avant-garde design inspired by an iconic NYC bridge. Each
designer gets a bridge: Kelly, who won last week, chooses the Brooklyn
Bridge;,Candice and Merline get the Queensboro, and Edmond and Ashley
are given the Manhattan Bridge...





To continue reading my RECAP, click HERE on the "Project Runway" myLifetime.com Blog




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