André Bryson - Guerrilla - Emerging Fashion Designers at NYFW

André Bryson - Guerrilla - Emerging Fashion Designers at NYFW

For those of you who may not be familiar with the term, Guerrilla is the name given to irregular military combatants, like a 'Resistance' army; not an official army... In my correspondence with the designer André Bryson he tells me that these 60's 70's silhouettes are a reference inspired by the tensions of the day, both in the USA; and tensions in the UK epitomised by the Mods and Rockers. Clearly André sides with the Mods on the style front. And quoting Bryson directly "Only the five primary colors (black, white, red, yellow and blue) I wanted to express that every color known to man is derived from these five colors in hope to bring unity to this collection as a complete story." I suspect the colours chosen also represent a message of unity in more than just the designs. My photos are of some of the highlights from the Guerrilla range, shown with Bracé Designers Emergent De la Mode NYFW at The Stewart Hotel, NYC September 2017.

I love the blocked colours and bold stripes, patch pockets and windowpane broken-checks, black with white or white with black, playing with positive/negative combinations. The innovative Nehru jacket as an open-front blouse with a scarf or pussy bow tied at the collar, a personal favourite of mine. Curiously, weeks later I saw similar concepts being sent down the runway in my news feeds from the Paris shows.. Weeks later.. Bryson seems to have the zeitgeist a fashion designer needs on his side. Love his designs? You can contact him directly via his instagram below. For more shots, just scroll down!

https://www.instagram.com/andre.bryson/
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Kent Johnson, Sydney, Australia.

0433 796 863

kent@artcommunication.com.au

www.kentjohnsonphotography.com.au

www.fashionphotographysydney.blogspot.com/

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ROYAL COUTURE.....Queen Letizia of Spain: United Kingdom State Visit Fashion!

ROYAL COUTURE.....Queen Letizia of Spain: United Kingdom State Visit Fashion!

Style Queens: Queen Letizia of Spain with Queen Elizabeth II during the Spanish Royals State Visit to the United Kingdom

Last week, King Felipe and Queen Letizia of Spain traveled to the United Kingdom for their first official state visit as the reining monarchs of Spain (the last one was in 1986 by Felipe's father and mother, King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia). Letizia continued to uphold her reputation as one of the most stylish royals, showing off her sense of modern-day contemporary style but with enough of a nod to traditional Royal Couture. The three-day state visit was marked with various events including a couple of glamorous banquets that the 44-year-old Spanish Queen took full advantage of to showcase her fabulous sartorial style. The royals arrived in the United Kingdom in the evening and therefore, their first full day didn't begin until the day after...



Let's discuss Letizia's "Royal Couture" for this Official State Visit:

Departing from Spain Outfit: To begin her trip to London, Queen Letizia wore this Hugo Boss white suit featuring a pencil skirt and sleeveless top with fold detail. Quite modern and sleek, she was very "Head Anchor for BBC"-looking. I especially liked the python pumps and clutch. Score: 9.0/10

The following morning...

The Welcoming Committee: (Top Photo) Prince Charles and and Duchess of Cornwall welcoming King Felipe and Queen Letizia at their hotel; (Lower Photo) Prince Philip and Queen Elizabeth                                                greet the Spanish royals at Buckingham Palace

For this "Welcome to London" ensemble, Letizia wore a custom lemon yellow suit from her favorite Spanish designer, Felipe Varela. The ensemble feature Guipure lace trim at the hem of both the 3/4 jacket/coat as well as the dress. The jacket was of a light "summertime" tweed. She wore nude Prada pumps and as is protocol for a State Visit, she accessorized the outfit with gloves and a hat. The hat was designed by Maria Nieto. I liked the light/airy quality of this style and the color is perfect for Summer but I wasn't a fan of the lace trim; it just seems so "Mother of the Bride" mumsy. But I understand that for that first official meeting with Queen Elizabeth, she didn't want to come off as well, too "directional". I give her a 7.0 out of 10.



Later, she did an outfit change for a visit to the Palace of Westminster and tea at Clarence House with Charles and Camilla:

For this, she donned a red Burberry trench coat dress featuring gold buckled epaulets and belt as well as oversized double breasted lapels. This was a perfect choice of attire (and brand/designer) for attending the Palace of Westminster and being in the UK. Plus, the choice of red was double perfect! Notice the extra piece added to the hem to make it below the knee appropriate. Score: 9.9/10

That evening, there was the State Banquet held at Buckingham Palace with Queen Elizabeth as the grand hostess, and Queen Letizia wore another shade of red:

 Gown Queens: (L to R) Prince Philip, Queen Letizia, Queen Elizabeth and King Felipe--Buckingham Palace State Banquet 

For the very regal State Banquet with Queen Elizabeth, Queen Letizia wore a red sequined off-the-shoulder gown from Felipe Varela. The red custom gown featured delicate lace beaded applique on tulle layered over a silk satin gown that had a drop waist and slightly gathered overskirt.

She accessorized with the Fleur de Lys tiara--the most impressive crown that the Spanish royalty possesses originally given to Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain as a wedding gift (quite a wedding gift!) by her husband King Alfonso XIII in 1906. The diadem is nicknamed "La Buena" or The Good One, by the royal family. She also wore the Order of Carlos III Grand Cross Sash and Star of the Order. Overall, she looks like a Queen, very elegant and distinguished and the Spanish Red is striking on Letizia. I give her entire look a 9.0/10.



On the subject of her favorite designer, Felipe Varela...Interesting to note the slight disconnection between what the Spanish fashion designer creates for his collections as opposed to what is custom done for the Queen. While his runway shows look like this:

 Sexy Hot: Felipe Varela Spring/Summer 2017

He creates this for Queen Letizia:

Queen Traditional: Queen Letizia in custom Felipe Varela--UK State Visit

Finally, the following day, the Lord Mayor hosted a banquet for the Spanish royals at London's Guildhall in which Princess Anne was in attendance representing her mother, Queen Elizabeth II, and here Queen Letizia went the most chic and modern:

Queen Letizia wore this off-the-shoulder navy blue "techno" cady side draped gown from Armani Collezioni. I LOVED this gown on Letizia; it was sexy (Ayyyy Dios Mio!), directional and Runway Fab. I really liked how it hugged her body and gave her a look of 1930's "Old Hollywood Glamour". A 9.7/10...

It also really made poor Princess Anne look like a "Dowager Duchess" when photographed together (photo above).

Muy Bien! Queen Letizia in London, wearing off-the-shoulder Armani Collezioni

TRAVELING IN STYLE.....New Hainan Airlines Couture Flight Attendant Uniforms

TRAVELING IN STYLE.....New Hainan Airlines Couture Flight Attendant Uniforms

Welcome to First Class: Model in Paris showing one of the newest looks from Chinese designer Laurence Xu Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017 show which will be part of the new Hainan Airlines uniforms

Last week was the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week where many top fashion houses the likes of Dior, Valentino and Chanel showcased their latest bespoke one-of-a-kind (or sometimes for two, three or four very,very, very rich clients around the world!) couture creations.

Laurence Xu Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017

Shandong China-born, Paris-based designer Laurence Xu also showed his latest Haute Couture offerings last week. His collection, shown at the the ballroom at the InterContinental Paris Le Grand, combined elements of Chinese high glamour with contemporary stylings. 

But it wasn't his collection that made news, it was the news that he was picked to design the latest uniforms for Hainan Airlines, People's Republic of China's largest civilian-run airline and 4th largest in terms of its fleet size. Xu showed several of these Hainan Airlines uniforms designs as part of his Haute Couture collection. 

 Suited Cheongsam Glamour--Hainan Airlines Laurence Xu Haute Couture uniforms

Capelet Chic: Flight attendant Couture from Laurence Xu-designed Haiana Airlines uniforms shown at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week

Normally these designs would probably cost in the high thousands (normally a true Haute Couture suit--from the likes of French fashion houses of Christian Dior or Chanel--could set a client back about $50,000 while an evening gown, $100,000), but since these will go into mass production for many flight attendants and airline staff, one assumes these will actually not be true Haute Couture--even though their origins were.

Coffee, Tea, or COUTURE: New uniforms for Hainan Airlines from Laurence Xu Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017/2018

The uniforms that were showcased combine elements of classical, Far East aesthetics and the silhouette of a modern Western suit. Styles included the traditional Cheongsam Chinese dress, featuring 3/4-length sleeves, a print of clouds, skies and birds, as well as a knee-length curved hem. The curving style lines were also seen in the front part of the dress. 

The new Hainan Airlines Laurence Xu Haute Couture-designed flight attendant uniforms will also have a fabulously chic capelet coat that is reversible--gray on one side, raspberry colored on the other (Photo above).

There is also what is probably one of the most stylish aprons I have EVER seen on a flight attendant in the design of the  side-wrap draped look (model in the center, photo above). 

The men don't look too shabby either in their Nehru-collar-like suits and double breasted VERY wide lapeled coats (SOOO 80's/90's Retro!).

According to the press release, Hainan Airlines and the designer Laurence Xu began discussing the designs over two years ago, eventually going through more than 1,000 designs and more than one hundred samples of garments and accessories (yikes!). I love these designs, and especially like the mix of contemporary design with traditional Chinese styling. I also like the curved mini hats. 

Flight Attendant Best Dressed--Which one wins the Best Dressed Flight Attendant? (L to R) Gianfranco Ferre designed Korean Air uniform, Emirates Airline uniforms created by UK uniform manufacturer Simon Jersey, and the new Laurence Xu-designed uniforms for Hainan Airlines

I can't wait for a going-through-security FASHION RUNWAY UNIFORM airport terminal catwalk contest the next time I see those very chic Gianfranco Ferre-designed Korean Air or Emirates Airline  Simon Jersey-designed flight attendant's uniforms confronted by Hainan Airlines COUTURE. I hope I am there ready with my iPhone to get some photos!

ROYAL COUTURE.....Pippa Middleton Wedding: Wedding Gown, Best Dressed & "Uh Oh" Guests!

ROYAL COUTURE.....Pippa Middleton Wedding: Wedding Gown, Best Dressed & "Uh Oh" Guests!

 Wedding Gorgeous: Pippa Middleton and James Matthews smile after their wedding--St. Marks Church Englefield England

Pippa Middleton--the sister of Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, married hedge fund manager and former professional racing driver, James Matthews on Saturday at a glorious wedding fitting a royal--or "Royal Adjacent". Pippa might not really be a royal but because of her very close approximation to one, I am placing her--and her wedding--in this Royal Couture blog. So let's discuss the wedding and more importantly, the Wedding Couture beginning with Pippa's wedding dress and then some of the guests...



The Dress:

Pippa Gown: Pippa Middleton chose a "Princess"/A-line shaped ballgown style for her wedding day. The handmade gown of lace and pearls was designed by British designer Giles Deacon. The dress was done in a manner that would not show any seams--by overlapping the lace--by hand--meticulously over the many seams that are in a gown of this silhouette. The dress featured a full ballgown skirt shape and UBER fitted drop-waist torso/bustier. It also had a high neckline, drop shoulder sleeve detail and heart-shaped semi-open back.

 British designer Giles Deacon

Giles Deacon Couture Fall/Winter 2016, modeled by model Anna Cleveland, daughter of famed 70's Supermodel Pat Cleveland 

Giles is said to have put on hold all his fashion business for the last few months to concentrate on Pippa's one-of-a-kind gown. His most recent "Couture" collection was for Fall/Winter 2016 and it showed glorious, billowing handmade gowns with exquisite applique detail. Pippa's wedding dress would probably cost in the realm of $75,000-$100,000, at least that would be the going price for an actual Haute Couture gown from the likes of Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Chanel or Dior. No news if she possibly got a "discount" for all the press he would receive.



The Veil:

The veil--of tulle and pearls--was done by famed milliner Stephen Jones.

Sister Fixing: Pippa's sister, Catherine the Duchess of Cambridge, was seen fixing Pippa's tulle-and-pearl veil as she was about to enter the church ceremony, just making sure that it was perfect

Shape Similar: Pippa's lace and pearl wedding gown was similar in shape to the iconic Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton wedding dress worn by her sister Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge

Sealed with a Kiss: Pippa Middleton and James Matthews as they emerge from their church wedding ceremony with their "Flower girls and boys", including William and Kate's children Prince George (second from right) and Princess Charlotte--St. Marks Church, Englefield England

Page Boys and Girls:

Stylish George: Prince George (center), giving a "look" to the photographers--and looking very much like his father when William was his age. Prince George looked super cute in a white Peter Pan collared shirt with mini pintucks and emerald green silk shantung knickers.

Royal Style:

Mommie Kate: Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge looked chic and wedding appropriate in a dusty rose/light salmon colored silk crepe dress from Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton. Her dress was a lady-like tea-length and featured a v-neckline, gathered Bishop sleeves, fitted midriff and pleated front skirt details. Her daughter Princess Charlotte looked ADORABLE in her gathered flower girl dress, with fresh flower headdress and pink cummerbund.

I have to say that Catherine looked very "Wallis Simpson Duchess of Windsor"-like in this 30's-like dress.

Dapper Brothers: Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and his brother Prince Harry in their tailcoat/morning coat ensembles. 

Guests:

Princess Eugenie, daughter of Prince Andrew and Sarah, Duchess of York--(seen here with her boyfriend Jack Brooksbank) wore this navy blue A-line shaped knee-length dress from French designer Paule Ka. The cotton dress features a "split-shoulder" neckline and retails for $1,014 HERE. For Pippa's wedding she decided to "play it safe" as opposed to her head-turning look at Kate's wedding.

Vanilla Yellow Donna: British actress--and aspiring fashion designer--Donna Air (who is on-off girlfriend to Pippa's hottie bearded brother James for the last four years)--attended the wedding in this lemon yellow/cream coat-dress from UK designer Emilia Wickstead Spring/Summer 2017 collection. Lots of fashion-watchers criticized her for saying that she should not have worn WHITE (a No-No as a wedding guest) but I have to disagree with these wanna-be-fashion experts...this coat-dress is NOT white and in fact more of a "vanilla yellow"-like color. I liked it! It was demure, elegant and lady-like. I also loved the matching hat and those fabulous ankle strapped pumps. The magenta colored clutch added a respite from all the vanilla/lemon yellow. Did I mention that this WAS NOT WHITE. OK. Thank you.

Tartan: A couple of male guests opted for tartan pants as part of their tailcoat ensembles. And I say "Go On Boys!". Love the tartan, love the statement and even though, yes, I know as a guest of a wedding, it really isn't about you but...I love when (especially) male guests GIVE YOU FASHION!

Flower Prints and Hats: These two guests stood out for their Wedding Fab printed dresses, perfect for a Spring/Summer wedding. I love the canary yellow flower printed dress on the left as well as the blue one on the right. Both looks are great examples of chic Wedding Guest Style, especially for a May wedding. If I had to chose my favorite of the two, it would be the blue; the waist-tie shirt dress style was elegant, fun and I loved the feminine ruffle details.

Fab Dressed: These two guests get my Wedding Guest Best Dressed points--the left one, for that fab pheasant feather-topped hat and blue-and-white ensemble as well as those navy-and-white pumps. I also loved the guest on the right in the pink pleated silk dress with Bishop sleeves and delicately appliqued detail. The gold pumps were a super chic addition.

Uh No Part One: Two female wedding guests that were not on my Best Dressed List were these printed ladies. Now, there's a way to do printed dresses for a wedding (scroll above) and this is a way to not do it. The guest on the left wore this drab Autumn-like printed dress that not only, looked dowdy but also said "I'm not happy at this wedding". And then, somehow, in the middle of May, the guest on the right thought it was fine to bring out her gray fur chubby/mini coat. All I can say is #GURL ! But kids, these two weren't the only ones who went Wedding Koo Koo Couture...

Happy Hands At Home Dress and Lifesaver Fruit Dress Guest: Well, look what we have here--the guest on the left looks as if she took her old Laura Ashley 80's bed sheet or window drapes and felt fine in making a dress out of it. And then, in addition, decided an iridescent organza shawl would make a fine accessory. Speaking of accessories, what in the name of the FASHION GODS are those putrid brown shoes??? Let's move on to the guest on the right--I give this woman points for being "sassy" in this colorful striped ensemble. And the big hat screams "I'm a good friend of the Gays" and I will bet a couple of British pounds that she's a hoot at the open bar, but...this is just too 1992 for me. Especially those "Lifesaver Fruit Flavor"-like buttons.



Oh well, at least, I can still go back to this gorgeous dress:

Congratulations to the Happy Couple--Pippa Middleton and James Matthews!