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RECAP - MELBOURNE FASHION WEEK

Melbourne Fashion Week took over the footpath of Swanston Street for its annual week long offering that launches the beginning of Spring and Summer and the social season in which Melbourne comes alive. 
Melbourne fashion week 2017
Shirt: Department 5
Socks: Gucci
Shoes: Ben Sherman
Bag: No Name
Sunglasses: Arockonalens

The fashion obsessed flowed into the Melbourne Town Hall to view the latest offerings from both designers and retailers with their glasses of champers in hand. It is always a great environment to catch up with your fellow stylish friends, see familiar faces behind a camera and meet new and exciting people that your normally only communicate with through your instagram feed. The MFW Bar meant serious business inside with its set up and exhibition space, which unfortunately did not flow outside to the claustrophobic outdoor area on the footpath either side of the entrance. 
Melbourne Fashion Week 2017
Courtesy: Mamamia


For dedicated fashion addicts there were a handful of people on the street that peaked my interest. Hoards of bloggers, influencers and wannabes presented their best offerings for the camera's as they circled the block. As you know the louder and more individual you are in your clothes, the more likely you are to peak the interest of the papz and be snapped. In this case I felt like I was stuck inside a photo shoot for a menswear suit catalog. After a week of viewing the street styles I was left with the impression that Australian menswear fashion is still relatively conservative, with not much evolution between seasons or even years. Thankfully there were standouts from the ladies who bought their A game to the footpath injecting understated chicness and colourful combinations whilst braving the chilly nights.
Melbourne Style at Fashion Week
Shirt & Blazer: James Harper
Pants: Department 5
Shoes: Lacoste
Bag: Doucals
Sunglasses: Gucci


Trends that dominated the footpath outside the shows:



Street Luxe - The number one dominating trend was the mixing of streetwear with high fashion. Of course all black ensembles were everywhere, and the opposite. All white was also present like a flock of seagulls searching for a potato chip. 



Florals - As Miranda Priestly so eloquently put it, florals for Spring. Groundbreaking. Let's move on.



Belts - Belts were everywhere. Some good, some bad and some that I will be happy to never see again. If I see one more GG gold belt I think I will scream as it has replaced the tiresome YSL tassel bag that every woman has been renting for the last year.

Men in Suts - When it comes to men's suits there were some stylish accessories to set off the slim tailored fits that were on display. Plenty of pocket squares and lapel pins which showed individuality of the wearer. There were minimal pleated trousers which have been huge in Europe for the last two years and plenty of loafers with no socks. Special shout out to the gents who took the stuffiness out of menswear and wore something a little different and didn't play it safe. Bravo.

Pretty Ugly Shoes - Delighted to see so many wonderful shoes with different hardware and embellishments in a variety of styles both on men and women. Thigh high leather tan boots on women with chunky heels were a regular staple. The elaborate shoes would not normally be considered pretty but the vulgarity and opulence was beautiful and refreshing to see in Melbourne. ADORE!

Fur - Fur accessories adorned everything from earrings to bags and shoes. Poor little critters will live on for seasons to come after being dyed in fabulous colours providing a lux
vibe to ensembles.

Men's street style Melbourne Fashion Week
Blazer & Coat: Oxford
Shirt, Tie, Pocket Squares & Shorts: James Harper
Sweater: Ted Baker
Socks:  Gucci

Most of the shows were exactly as I feared, producing safe visions of well groomed and pruned ensembles ready for the horse racing season in a few months. The flare for dramatics or igniting a point of difference was eliminated by many big designers that played it safe and delivering much of what they have for the previous seasons. However there were a few examples of inspiration and creativity that will be burned in my mind for a while. Don't forget to follow me on Instagram for updates

Garage Runway - As much as I enjoy a good summer dress, there was a lot of black and muted tones or uninspiring patterns that were constantly reused. I understand ethical fashion and the need to be wise with materials, but without variety comes boredom. I have seen so many dresses inspired by Queen B's baseball bat twirling dress to last me a lifetime. 

Menswear Garage - Alike the aforementioned it was held in the basement of the Melbourne Town Hall, the likes of Amxander, Jack London, Autonomy, Chris Ran Lin and Dom Bagnato sent styles down the runway that unfortunately did not peak my interest. Following European trends with oversized bumbags across the chest and numerous patterned materials that were reused for different pieces, there were a few nice pieces but nothing that made me gasp. The overall vibe of the show was trying to be edgy with the model selection, music, skateboards and styling, that it all felt the same. I left a little deflated after this showing.

David Jones - The creative styling team behind the show should be commended for creating safe ensembles that would peak the interest of suburban housewives and gents who require a suit for the races. A huge retailer like David Jones do know their target audience very well and this showcased their knowledge of their consumer, right down to the YSL heels or The Kingsman inspired gentlemen that will soon appear on movie screens.

Premium Runway Four - Finally an injection of what fashion means to me. There were opulent embellishments, tassels, fabric choices, voluminous sleeves and dramatics in the styling including a little homage to good old Formation film clip. The line up of deisgners meshed well together although once again there was a little too much black on the catwalk for my liking, but it is Melbourne after all and black sells. 


Premium Runway - Closing - The saying "Leave the best to last" was true of closing night of the festival with some inspirational displays sent down the ice melting runway. In a week that started off rather underwhelming it was good to wrap the festival up on a positive note with some of Australia’s most popular labels such as Romance Was Born, solid stand out for me.

After a few seasons not attending what was Melbourne Spring Fashion Week and rebranded MFW, it was pleasant to see new ideas influence the program and inject some much needed innovation into the festival. Melbourne has serious pride in it's events and the team behind Melbourne Fashion Week should be commended for staying current and on trend whilst producing a solid program. A huge shout out to the volunteers who spent 12 hour days holding the festival together. Round of applause.

I believe that some of the designers need to lift their game if they wish to retain current supporters of their brands, or attract new customers. By the end of the week photographers were not on the streets, media pit at the end of the runway appeared a little thin and there were many empty seats in the town hall creating an underwhelming atmosphere. With Melbourne Fashion Festival receiving an injection of funding from the State Government recently it will be interesting to see if the fashion capital is big enough for both Fashion Week and Fashion Festival. Let the catwalk battles begin.







SASHES AND TIARAS.....Miss World 2015 "World Fashion Designer Dress": The Top Ten "Best" According to Miss World Judges...Really?




World Fashion Designer Top 10: Maybe, Maybe Not--Miss World 2015 "World Fashion Designer Dress" Event, Sanya China


Photos courtesy of MissWorld.com



Events leading up to the Finals of the 65th Annual Miss World Beauty Pageant are occurring this past week. The Finals are December 19th but yesterday there was a "Preliminary" event for the Miss World--World Fashion Designer Dress Event, where all the 100+ contestants wore ensembles/gowns made by designers from their home countries. Tomorrow are the Finals of this event where the Miss World Top Model and World Designer Award fashion gala take place.







But at the Preliminary event, the contestants modeled their designs in front of the judges and the Top Ten "World Designer Dresses" were chosen. Here they are in alphabetical order (country-wise).

I'm not so sure these would have been my Top Ten Best Designer Dresses/Ensembles, in fact I would have probably put one or two in my "Uh Oh!" List. Not so sure what "Designer Dress" Kool-Aid the judges were drinking but here were their choices..





Miss Bosnia and Herzegovina Marijana Marcovic: Right away, I have an issue with this big ol' mess being named as Top Ten Miss World 2015 "Best World Fashion Designer Dress". This cha-cha black and silver trimmed design was created by Carmen Line according to the Miss World website. It is tacky and very "My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding". The pointed strapless neckline is not just obnoxious but would be ripped to shreds by any red carpet correspondent if this was ever worn at a red carpet event. It's BAD.





Miss Brazil Catharina Choi: Catharina wore this midnight blue lace gown designed by Olga Blanc. It's OK; nothing extraordinary. I've seen these styles in the back of an "After Five" Dress section at Macy's. I think that a gown worn at the "Miss World--World Fashion Designer Dress" event should be just a little more Haute and a little less department store-like. Maybe it's just me.





Miss Cote D'Ivoire Andrea N'Guessan: I actually like this mustard yellow jumpsuit with vest/cape design worn by Andrea. It's elegant, contemporary and makes a strong impact. I especially love her accessorizing; the gold earrings, gold belt, and THAT head-turban is EVERYTHING! I just wished that the top was a bit more interesting--an asymmetrical drape/pleat perhaps. The princess-seamed pattern to this silhouette is very "Design School 101".





Miss Guadeloupe Arlene Tacite: Arlene wore this ivory crepe gown with blue sequin applique featuring a strapless bustier designed by Jessica Jordan. I liked this. Once again, it's not very innovative--design-wise but it is quite nice; maybe that's the criteria I need to be considering. At least it fits well and the length is perfect.





Miss India Aditi Arya: I expected much more from a Miss World India. Seriously. This gold and ivory sequined column gown designed by Monisha Jaising is, again, just OK, but nothing spectacular. I could see this dress at a department store...or in the Downtown L.A. Garment District.





Miss Indonesia Maria Harfanti: Maria wore this blue and ivory gown which evokes a possible "Ming Vase" inspiration. The gown was designed and created by private clientele designer brand Windy Chandra Couture. It's nice but certainly not on the scale of an UBER fabulous Guo Pei creation.







Miss Italy Greta Galassi: Greta wore this golden and silver/pewter colored satin-and-sequined gown from Erasmo Fiorentino. The design featured some cut-out's and peek-a-boo's. It had a hint of "Art Deco" but I just don't understand why this ended up as a Top Ten. The sketch was better than Greta wearing it. I think on a dark-skinned contestant, this might have had a bit more of an impact, but on her, it was a "meh".





Miss Mongolia Anu Namshyrin: Anu wore this white illusion, chiffon and silver sequin gown designed by Tserenlkhagva Khuyag-Ochi. It featured sheer sleeves, 80's shoulders, and a drop waist silhouette. This was a bit wedding gown vibe to the dress; too cutesy and too Mother-of-the-Bride--or maybe the father's Mistress(!)...at a Russian millionaire's wedding. Just saying.





Miss Puerto Rico Keysi Vargas: Keysi's black nude netting/illusion with black sequin applique gown , designed by Jose Karlo, was one of the better ones chosen in the Top Ten Miss World 2015 "World Fashion Designer Dress" event. I loved the architectural aspect of the design and sharp shoulder/front detail, as well as the contrast fabric knit long sleeve top section. I just wished the sequined lace applique would have started a little lower in her hips/thigh area; it was just a little too close to her "Uh Oh" regions.





Miss Vietnam Tran Ngoc Lan Khue: Not sure how this rather plainly-designed ombre-hued blood red-to-yellow gown ended up as one of the Top ten best. The off the shoulder dress was designed by Ly Qui Khanh. I think this was rather basic and not memorable. And certainly not "Best World Designer Dress" material.



*UP NEXT: MY CHOICES for BEST Miss World 2015 "World Designer Dresses"...and the OH DEAR!


How to dress like Olivia Palermo:

 Olive and Black
A very common color combination that Olivia relies on is olive green and black together. Olive green is a subtle incorporation of the recent military trend and acts as a hue that compliments black but still adds depth. Where as black and red or black and blue are common color combinations, olive and black is a more understated trend. Olivia uses these colors to create a neutral yet polished look. To dress like Olivia, finding a good pair of olive green skinnies or a top to wear with the black pieces you already own would be a great start.
 Vests with the Fur
I am not one to promote the abuse of animals, but fur seems to be a large component of Olivia's style. She has an assortment of fur vests that she throws on to elevate her outfit and add an element of luxury to her look. The fur also gives her looks texture and draw in visual interest. The vest becomes the focal point so she keeps the rest of the outfit simple. Finding a vintage fur vest would be a perfect step in Olivia's style direction. And there are plenty of faux fur alternatives to achieve the same level of chic without harming animals.
 Katherine Hepburn
In a world dominated by in-your-face sexuality, its a breath of fresh air to see well covered, yet still chic looks like these. Olivia opts for the subtle sensuality of Katherine Hepburn's menswear inspired style. Like the fashion icon herself, Olivia wears wide legged trousers and loose blousy tops with understated polished ease. Its all about oversized pieces that are tailored to hang perfectly. To try this look for yourself, I would recommend finding a quality vintage woman's suit and getting it taken in to fit your body perfectly.
 Little Black Dress
This classic standby cannot be ignored. Olivia knows the power of a versatile piece like the LBD. She knows she can rely on a simple black frock with a few special accessories to look ready for any occasion. Olivia tends to opt for black dresses with short hemlines to show off her thin legs and long sleeves to balance out and cover up on top. She also seeks out LBDs with a little something different such as a leather texture or sequin panels. To take a cue from Olivia find that black dress you've always relied on and think of a few new different ways you can style it.
 Black Tie Event
When men dress up for a special occasion they can always rely on a classic black tuxedo to look sharp and pulled together. Olivia often takes a cue from them and dresses up in tux inspired outfits that look chic and timeless. She takes a feminine twist on the classic suit by wearing black leather skinnies, a girly lace or sequined top underneath, and throwing in some quirky accessories such as a leopard print clutch or heeled duck boots. If you want to immolate this look, be sure to get well tailored pieces that show off your feminine shape and don't overwhelm your frame. Also look for menswear inspired pieces with girly details such as a satin trimmed lapel or dainty buttons.
  Not-Quite-Neutral
Olivia also has a thing about wearing uncommon colors such as mustard yellow, musky beige, or tangerine orange. She wears these shades as if they are neutrals even though they create a unexpected pop of color. Colors such as these seem unappealing or aged when on the hanger, but Olivia wears them in a way that is youthful and fresh. Olivia makes sure to wear these colors in sleek cuts and modern silhouettes. Picking up a frock in a quirky color like these would be a great way to incorporate a little of Olivia's style into your look.
 Bold and Lavish Jewelry
Olivia tends to wear striking, luxurious jewelry. Her fingers always have huge gold rings in elaborate shapes and intricate textures. She frequently has a several detailed gold bangles on her wrists and sometimes wears a gilded gold watch that has a gold face in it. She never wears necklaces unless it is a large statement piece. To start a jewelry collection like Olivia's scour flea markets for quality one of a kind antique rings and bracelets. Invest in a gold watch that will bring an element of style to an everyday look. Skip the dainty chain and pendant necklaces and grab a few bold giant pieces from Forever 21.
Timeless Bags With a Twist
The fashion world can be very focused on status bags and Olivia knows this. She chooses to avoid the obvious trendy labels and instead leans towards classic shapes. The bags she carries always have a lot of structure. She tends to avoid large slouchy types. Because the shape of her bags are so simple, she adds in a little flair by carrying versions in interesting textures. To start dressing like Olivia, grab a simple bag or clutch in a leopard print or croc texture.
Natural Make-up and Healthy Hair
Because Olivia is a fashion risk taker, she keeps her make up as simple and understated. To keep her make up as neutral as possible, she sticks to thin sheer foundation, matte eyeshadows in browns and beiges, coral blush, and creamy natural pink lipstick. To imitate Olivia's look I would advise avoiding cakey concealers or foundations, colored metallic eyeshadows, and any lipstick more than 2 shades deeper than your natural lip color. When applying eye make up, use pencil eye liner to trace the top lash line only, be sure to curl your eyelashes with an eyelash curler and apply the best thickening volume mascara you can find.
As for Olivia's hair, she's moved past her long blonde typical california girl highlights and now works a much more mature and chic middle-parted brunette just-below-the-shoulder length cut. Her hair has a very multidimensional shade to it and lots of glossy shine. To get hair like her's keep your hair routine light on the products and less on the hot tools. Always rinse your hair with cold water at every wash to seal the strands and use a leave in hair gloss treatment every few weeks. This will help keep your hair's natural shine.
Break All the Rules
I know that this is rather contradictory to have a final rule like this, but fashion is all about pushing the limits. Olivia is always on the cutting edge of fashion and is fearless in the face of daring styles. Be a trend setter, not a trend follower. Most people would think that a purple leopard print dress with a large brown leopard print belt would look like a ridiculous leopard print over-kill. But Olivia makes it work by keeping the accessories simple, the cut of the dress minimal, and wearing it with full confidence. I know my style guides are all about imitating a specific fashionista's look, but to really take after Olivia, you have to branch out and wear whatever the hell you feel like wearing. Be fearless!
To help illustrate a few ways to put together an outfit inspired by Olivia Palermo, I've created a few looks here using the tips that I have mentioned.

VIA :Visual Basic

10 Favourite Accessory Looks Spotted at Fashion Preview Spring 2017

Photo credits:  Tio To Photography©

After seasons of larger-than-life fashion, designers are downsizing for Spring 2017, leaving accessories, the center stage. From bags, to scarves, to jewelry, to footwear some of the most intriguing pieces shown at the Fashion Preview presentations were also some of the smallest but we didn't lose sight of the details.

Scroll through to get up close and personal with 10 of the biggest accessory trends for next Spring...


 seen at Naïké Sping 2017

The search for your everyday bag is over.

When we spotted models at Fashion Preview walking down the runway, wearing their crossbody bags shortened, right below their armpit, we knew we were on to something... These new smaller camera bags-like satchels combine the lust of arm candy with the ease of a fanny pack and are great for storing all of your needed essentials.


seen at Helmer Spring 2017

Emojis speak louder than words.

A few years ago, it might have been hard to imagine that we'd be talking about emojis in any serious context. Now, though, the emojification of our once text-based society is set to become the norm. For Spring 2017, even designers are joining in on the action, with the illustrated faces appearing on several runways, from clothing to footwear.


seen at Helmer Spring 2017

It was glove at first sight.

Good things may come in pairs, but there’s something so tough and fiercely independent about accessorizing your look with only one statement glove. In an effort to surf to less-is-more trend in its most litteral representation, the single-glove trend was all over the runways for Spring 2017. Ad while designers seem to always want to add costume-like effects to their collections, this little move is no joke.


 seen at DUY Spring 2017

Chokers were the accessory of choice back in the '90s.

There were flash tattoo's, candy's plastic's velvet's, and if you were Princess Diana, even pearl-and-diamond-encrusted chokers! Now that they're back, we're seeing a much better version of the it-trend, resting at the base of your neck instead of on your throat and not fitting tightly or closely... But you'll never have to worry about them getting lost in your cleavage when you wear them with something low-cut.


 seen at Leinad Beaudet Spring 2017

The ultimate power dressing for Spring.

For Spring 2017, designers turned to the East for inspiration, thinking of artfully tied ribbons around your vests, coats, dresses, and tops as the new fashion fix to our obession with scarves and bandanas. Not only it is a very interesting new accessory, but it also flatters your waistline and adds up detailing to more low-key parts of your garments such as sleeves and necklines.


 seen at DUY Spring 2017

Remember all those piercing trends of the early 2000's? They're back!

It seems like just about every cool girl got a septum piercing this year, are we right? Whether worn as a sign of rebellion, a fashion statement or a cultural tradition, piercings have long been an idiosyncratic way to express ourselves and on the runways this season, designers celebrated the trend in many fashionable ways.


 seen at Helmer Spring 2017

Call it the mini-me syndrome.

Despite the fact that they require redefining what counts as everyday essentials, mini and micro bags marked huge hit on the runways this season. We think its their cute factor that'll make them such coveted accessories for Spring 2017. The result is not only a weight off your shoulders (literally) but they're also a great way to get your hands on a designer bag at a fairly-good price point.


 seen at Leinad Beaudet Spring 2017

Not since Blair Waldorf ruled the Upper East Side have tights had such a moment.

Designers were experimenting with legwear during Fashion Preview this season in new, bold ways. Tights and stockings are now seen as a detraction from one's over all look, but also add visual interest to it. And with the return of the boudoir trend last season, they've now become your easiest way to sport the trend on a day-to-day basis.


 seen at Leinad Beaudet Spring 2017

For instant added drama.

While probably not the best idea for the office, a veil is definitely a great way to take your outfit up a notch. The accessory has always been a favourite of the designers as it gives their models a mysterious fairytale touch, we're all dying for. For Spring 2017, they're coming in many variants and even more different ways to wear them.


seen at Yoga Jeans

In a conscious effort to go green.

Montrealers do love their bikes, whether they use them for daily transportation, for leisure or to work out. With the city recently ranked #1 bicycle-friendly city in North America (#8 in the world!), prepare for a Spring of pedal pushing; your bike might just be your best accessory to flaunt next season!




In Memoriam: Costume Designer Nolan Miller--A Shoulder Pad GOD!



Praise to One of My First Design Gods:






Ruffles and Poufs: Joan Collins, John Forsythe and Linda Evans, "Dynasty" TV Show, Costume Designer Nolan Miller



Last Wednesday June 6th, American fashion designer and television costume designer Nolan Miller passed away, at the age of 79. Miller had been ill for a while and he finally succumbed to lung cancer. He was one of my first "Design Gods". As a young boy--who only DREAMED of being a Fashion Designer while looking at glossy Vogue magazines and shows like "Dynasty" back in the 80's (yes, I am aging myself and I do not care!), I was in awe of his designs and the world he created through his incomparable design eye.





Nolan Miller emphasized elegance, excess, glamour with a capital "G", and one word: DIVA. And yes, he was known for being the Emperor of the 80's Shoulder Pads. Of course, Miller is famous for being the Costume Designer for the TV Show "Dynasty" which aired from 1981-1989--spanning almost the entire decade. In case you may be "Fashion and Costume Design Illiterate", read on...and if you are a "Young UMS" born after 1990, studying to be a Fashion Designer and you do not know who Nolan Miller is, YOU BETTER!






Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere







 Lanvin designs by Alber Elbaz



Every other Fashion Designer worth his Croquis Salt is referencing him--whether they want to admit it or not, such as Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga and  Alber Elbaz of Lanvin (see photos above) as well as many, many others. Anyhow, here's a quick Bio on Mr. Nolan Miller:





Born in Texas, Nolan Miller studied design at the Chouinard Art Institute (now the California Art Institute). He is best known for his costume design work for the long-running TV series "Dynasty" and especially for the looks that top stars Linda Evans, Joan  Collins and Diahann Carroll "featured". Miller exemplified the 80's Excess and Glamour Look.





Dynasty Divas: There were always LOTS of ruffles, lots of DRAMA, and yes, very, very STRONG SHOULDERS.







"The Colby's": Nolan Miller also designed for the "Dynasty" TV Show spinoff "The Colbys"--more shoulder pads, and more hand-beaded sequins darlings! Before he gained his "Shoulder Pad and Ruffle" TV Fame on that show as well as "Dynasty", Miller also was the Costume Designer for shows such as...






 "Charlie's Angels": Butch and Feminine Detective Chic






"The Love Boat": Hello Julie McCoy and her poly-jersey gathered off-the-shoulder "Cruise Ship" Dresses!






"Fantasy Island": Resort Glam








"Gilligan's Island": Ginger's sexy va-va-boom v-neck coral-colored sequined dress was designed by Nolan Miller



Branding and Licensing King:





Blouson Pattern: During the 80's, designer Nolan Miller also created McCall's Patterns--dresses, blouses and much more featuring those very shoulder-padded and BLOUSON'ed sleeves, nipped-in waists and over-all 80's "I-Got-Money-and-You-Don't" style--all based on "Dynasty" characters played by the ever-so-chic Joan Collins and Diahann Carroll.





Nolan Miller QVC: For 19 years, Nolan Miller was on QVC showcasing his fabulous "Nolan Miller Glamour Collection for QVC" jewelry and accessories; they were beautiful, colorful, costume-and Couture inspired and well, for 19 years, they did pretty well for him and QVC.  In 2011, he announced that he was retiring from QVC.



Nolan Miller on The Red Carpet:






Elizabeth Taylor in a Nolan Miller gown: Taylor wore it to the Golden Globes in 1985 when she received the Cecil
B deMille Award for her Outstanding Contribution in the Entertainment
Field. It went for $7,500 in the "Elizabeth Taylor Christie's Online Auction" last year.






Sophia Loren: Nolan Miller (left) and actress (and DIVA) Sophia Loren, wearing a Nolan Miller red gown at the 2000 Costume Designers Guild Awards.



Sketch Fab:












Illustration Fierce: Above are several Fashion Illustrations--including ones of "Dynasty" actresses and Muses Linda Evans and Joan Collins---Nolan Miller



Mr. Miller...





You will be missed. Thank you for inspiring a very young Greek-Venezuelan boy with a Dream!


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