Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week--Jean Paul Gaultier

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week--Jean Paul Gaultier

Black Swans, Biker Tutus, Men in Feathered Skirts, Silk Mousseline Trench Coats, a Cone Bra Wedding Gown and French SuperDiva Mylene Farmer??

Biker Tutu: Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

French Fashion Designer Jean Paul Gaultier showed his Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Haute Couture Collection and by the looks of the video and the photos, it was a Not-To-Be-Missed show! The music soundtrack began with the voice of actor Vincent Cassel of the film "Black Swan" instructing his dancers. From that moment--and the first Swan-like feathered headdress--we knew that this collection might have some Ballet tendencies...

PETA-Free Zone: Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

As the 60+ look collection materialized, indeed there were strong "Swan Lake" influences: Luxe tutus with mink, silk tulle, leather and wool, full skirts, ribbon-laced "Ballet" platform-pumps.

Also: Lots of Furs--in those "tutu dresses", as well as in parka coats, cape-gowns (above on English Model Erin O'Connor) and just about every other piece in the collection (it's Fall/Winter after all--a very un-politically correct one but still). Gowns featuring Madame Grès-like plisse pleating also showed up, as well as late 70's Disco-Era Divas like this one:

There was also a general undercurrent of a "Look-Back Through the Best of Gaultier" with highlights being all those FABULOUS Trench coats and Variations-on-the-Trench which is a Gaultier Hallmark:

It's Raining Trenches: Two Trench Coat looks from Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

My favorite being the GORGEOUS silk mousseline trench gowns with open back on above photos. Continuing with his "Ode to Himself" theme, Gaultier also showed many Menswear Looks--all hand-made Haute Couture naturally. These male DIVOS, stomped the runway in three-inch heel boots with Marabou and Ostrich-trimmed floor-length skirts, asymmetrical cape-jackets, poufy trench coat-gowns (yes, I said POUFY TRENCH COAT GOWNS!) and even a strapless bustier with attached shawl-over "over-gown". Check out les hommes kiddies:

Miss Thang: Gaultier Muse, Model and Collaborator Tanel Bedrossiantz, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Poufy Officer: Portuguese Model Luis Batalha, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Bearded Bustier: Model Benjamin Dukhan Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

And to put the "Gaultier Cherry" on top of this "Haute Couture Cake", he sent out French-Canadian model Ève Salvail who was definitely NOT typecast as the "White Swan" of the collection. She wore "Le Mariage" (wedding dress) with those iconic Cone-shaped bust cups that put him on the map, via Madonna:

Express Yourself: Model Ève Salvail, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

And speaking of Madonna--his show ended with the "French Madonna" (doesn't it seem as if there's a "Madonna" in EVERY country!), Mylène Farmer:

Comme J'Ai Mal: French Icon-singer Mylene Farmer, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Who, naturally was THE Black Swan of the show, wearing a fitted black leather jacket, tulle high-low skirt with a very long train (poor thing tripped on it when turning around), and of course, "Swan Lake"-like feathers atop her ginger-colored swept up-do. If this all sounds Trop! ("too much" en francais), then please by all means, see for yourself...

Click Below for Full Runway Video of Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture--Part One:

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture--Part Two:

Project Runway Recaps--My Epsiode 9 Recap: "If I See Another Flower I'll SCREAM!"

Project Runway Recaps--My Epsiode 9 Recap: "If I See Another Flower I'll SCREAM!"

Boob Jobs for Mommies, Genitalia Prints, Maxi Pads...and Ven Flower Power!



Let's Recap the Bullet Points of Last Night's Episode...



Maxi Pad Dresses:

Mommy Boob Jobs:

Male and Female Genitalia:

And...Ven Flower Auto Pilot:

Last night's 9th episode of Season 10 Project Runway was like attending a Women's Gynecological Seminar and a Flower Show...all at once! There were Maxi-pads, women's genitalia references, as well as mentions of boob jobs. And then there were those "Ven flowers" and Miss Heidi Klum's "If you do that again, I will SCREAM!" warning. The challenge for the episode was to create a print using the HP/Intel Touchsmart desktop and technology and design a runway look all while being inspired by their "cultural heritage". In a touching moment, the designers' loved ones--mommies, a sister, a best friend and a partner--were brought in to help them with their print designs. There's lots to highlight before I go into my Recap:




First, Gunnar...oh little Gunnar...

Season 10 contestant/designer Gunnar Deatherage was reunited with his GORGEOUS mommy--whom I actually met back at the Chicago Castings when I was there to film some fun behind-the-scenes segments for LookTV and YouTube. I remember her waiting outside the "Judge's Anti-chamber" all nervous as her son was in there. Anyhow, in the beginning of the episode, Gunnar said that he wanted to win the show so he could  

A) Buy himself a new pair of boots, and 

B) Buy his mommy a boob job.

If you want to know what my response was to that...you're going to have to keep reading at the end of this blog...



Now, let's get to the Runway:

It was nice to see Season 9 Winner Anya Ayoung Chee and Season 8 Designer and Season 1 All Stars Winner Mondo Guerra as the Guest Judges for last night's episode. I was a guest judge back in the 6th Season of Project Runway and I was very honored, but I do remember how the designers who were standing in front of us as we were judging, were rolling their eyes and sort of thinking "Who are YOU to judge me?" and I saw THE SAME thing in last night's episode. It was nice to see that it wasn't just me. Oh, and I thought both Anya and Mondo did a fantastic job by the way (and OMG! I LOVE Anya's ring! So fab!).



My Fave Design Was:

Melissa Fleis: Melissa was inspired by blood lines and a family tree which helped her create a red and white print which was very Resort and chic. The sheath dress was perfect! It fit perfectly, the length was just right, the print was great...I thought she should have won, being that IT WAS A PRINT CHALLENGE! Hello! I do understand that perhaps this dress was something one could see at a better department store right now. But, so what? Great job Melissa.



I also loved...

Fabio Costa: his design was very modern, very Tilda Swinton...the styling was SPOT ON. Fabio has a very European/NYC design sensibility and you can tell that design-wise, he is YEARS beyond someone like little Gunnar, (bless his heart). He just hid his print unfortunately with the black organza (same thing Christopher did) and only used it as a "secondary fabric". Oh and about that print: he said it was based on male and female genitalia. It's like "abstract Adam and Eve", I guess. Oh Fabio, you naaaastyyyyy! But, that's OK with me. I also liked...

Sonjia Williams: LOVED those pants. Perfectly mitered at the crotch and center back (the prints match, darlings), tailored and a fun print. Oh and that black cowl-back top: super. But the actual winner was...

Dmitry Sholokhov: The judges loved his jacket and were very effusive over its design and construction. But I was with Mondo on this one: It's NOT A JACKET Challenge. It's a PRINT Challenge. And to be honest, the top underneath--in the print--was not so revolutionary. Also, when you see the look above, it screams 2002, doesn't it? At least to me. But Congrats Dmitry for your first win. Finally!



Ven, Dear Flower Power-and-Maxi-Pad Ven...

Ven Budhu: I liked his one-shoulder dress. It was muy elegante and very Uptown Doyenne. But yes, that darn pleated rose thing! AGAIN. After seeing his NY Fashion Week Collection last Friday at Lincoln Center (he was one of the eight Season 10 Designers who showed and it was ALL about his pleated rose!), now I'm beginning to think he's just stubborn and wants to keep giving an "F You" to the judges. Who knows...

 Season 10 designer Ven Budhu, a Maxi-Pad Dress and Tim Gunn

This was his second dress after Tim Gunn called his fan-pleated detail on the first dress (above on form) something that reminded him of a Maxi pad. Oh Lordy. 



Now the Lowest Vote Getter...

Gunnar Deatherage: Gunnar designed a print--with hands outstretched trying to grab a bird--based on the bullying he has endured throughout his childhood and high school years. The minute the episode focused so much on all of this, I knew he was GONE. He said his design was "Equestrian" but the judges were not so complimentary when it came to his design.



PS: This is Chic Equestrian...

Charlotte Casiraghi of Monaco for Gucci--unfortunately his design was closer to...

An ad for Chico's. Enough said.

Here's my Recap for this week's Project Runway Episode:

If It's Another Flower I Will Scream!

It's the halfway mark of Season 10 of
"Project Runway." We began with 16 designers and now, we're down to 8.
Last week's Team Challenge was "The Boris and Natasha Show"
as I called it in my last blog recap. It was all about Dmitry and Elena
and their bickering and hate-talking which dominated the entire
episode. The fashions were mostly a yawn except for Sonjia's winning
Armani Prive-esque jacket and Christopher's asymmetrical camel coat, so
of course, the episode concentrated on the bitchy drama. What should the
next challenge bring? Well, let's find out...



Pay Your Bills. .. Before Getting Mommie a Boob Job

As the episode begins, there's a little confessional scene from
Gunnar saying that he wishes he'll win so he can buy himself a pair of
boots and his mom, a boob job. OK huney, that's cute for TV and will
guarantee you get some camera time (Gunnar, you just made the producers
and editors have an editorial orgasm!), but it's not so cute in real
life. Here's some advice: those two things might not be your top
priorities when someone hands you a $100,000. Maybe paying your college
loans, bills, setting up a design studio ... those might be your
priorities. Oh these kids, they slay me ... AGAIN!



Addicted to Heidi

Heidi in a very mini, strapless black dress (a la Robert Palmer Girl)
—l; walks in, warning the remaining designers that they all need to
step it up and "wow" her. Umm, HELLO! Amen Sister. This is not the first
time she's said this to this group. I wonder why? I’ve been saying
throughout this season that the fashions have been rather unmemorable.
It looks as if the theme is "Make it Safe". But when it comes to
"characters," Season 10 has it in spades. Which is better? Well, talk
amongst yourselves on that one because I would rather discuss this
week's challenge and fashions.



HP Haute

Tim Gunn is in the Parsons Workroom with Season 8 Finalist and All
Stars Season 1 Winner Mondo Guerra. They are there to introduce the HP
Print Challenge (Yeayyy, one of my favorites!): Create a textile design
and a modern runway look inspired by your cultural heritage...



To read the rest...CLICK HERE--and as always, PLEASE leave me YOUR "Two Cents" and comments!!!

Building A Capsule Wardrobe: Pants and Shorts

Building A Capsule Wardrobe: Pants and Shorts

Let's get it straight, pants, are the greatest freedom. Pioneering for women to wear pants was one of the greatest things women like Gabrielle Chanel ever did. Now, I love dresses, skirts and feeling feminine, but I like to do this with a touch of manliness. The juxtaposition between male/ female is the perfect spot to reside in for me. Comfort, is a major factor for me when it comes to getting dressed, women who kill themselves to fit into something uncomfortable for days on end make me frustrated. A lot of primping and product application can be fun, but everyday it is just tiring. I am not a fan of lots of hairspray, product, etc. I do love to dress up and feel beautiful, but I do not like to sacrifice my sanity and comfort to achieve this. In the world of fashion, I often feel perplexed watching what I dub as 'overdressed' women. Posing in platform neon heels, a bikini and bangles for photos is confusing. Wearing heels on grass, is confusing. If you are going to an event like the races, or a picnic, please do not wear heels! I feel at odds with myself the second I step on to unsturdy ground in a heel- even if this is for a moment. I find flatform shoes confusing, they are just so unattractive! The list goes on, but at the end of the day, to each their own.

I wear jeans, a lot. For a while, when I had gone through a super girly phase, jeans really bothered me. I hated seeing them on everybody- all looking the same. The thing is though, it is comfortable, often warmer, and you CAN personalize your style even if you are simply 'in jeans'. These days they are also widely worn in dressier circumstances, with a good pump heel, or ankle boot they can elongate the legs and look amazing. Find a good brand and stick to it. For me I love Rag and Bone, J-Brand (they are worth the $$ because the fit it is incredible), Sass and Bide, Dr.Denim and One Teaspoon. 

I do prefer to wear trousers or jeans as an everyday thing- rather than when going out for dinner, to a show or the like. For occasional wear I will switch back to a skirt or dress. Don't underestimate how valuable a well tailored black trouser can be, they will come in handy, are great for the office or official business and work in summer or winter. I ensure I have a matching black blazer, just in case I want to suit up.

For years I thought shorts were for men in summer, for Mickey Mouse and for children. I didn't see that they had much of a place in a womens wardrobe. It took me a while to see how I could feel like they were appropriate and found a place in my own day-to-day. Now I wear them all summer, and consider them to be a staple- again, in my day-to day, I leave shorter shorts out of the office and prefer not to wear them out to an event or dinner. They certainly can be worn in dressier ways- when tailored correctly, I feel they can look rather nice. The trick is to get the proportions right. A short short with an exposing cami top feels to me like I am showing too much skin. A cami top and longer shorts, is a little better, but best suited to culottes. Shorter shorts I feel team up best with a shirt or tee which has full or 3/4 length sleeves. When it comes to buying denim shorts I tend to go up one or two sizes, so they are looser around the thigh area. It is more flattering that way, and gives you plenty of room to move. I don't mind the torn hems, as long as the overall short covers your butt (ensure you bend down when you try them on- just to check you actually can without exposing cheek!) and I tend to stay away from embellishment, at least when building the essential capsule wardrobe.

Here is the breakdown of my 'Must Have Pants and Shorts For Any Woman':
- 1x Dark Denim jeans (skinny, fitted or flared- to suit your own body shape best)
- 1x Blue, Khaki, Bone, White or Oxblood coloured jean (again to suit your own body shape)
- 1x Torn 'Boyfriend' jean (I love the One Teaspoon Awesome Baggies, buy in a size or two larger)
- 1x Black linen long shorts- around knee length, slightly wide in the leg
- 1x Black tailored dress trousers for occasional wear and office wear
- 1x Black jeans (again, in a cut to suit your body shape)
- 1x Light Grey suit-shorts, can be short or longer, wear with an elegant flat or kitten heel for a dressier look
- 1x light washed denim or black denim cut off shorts (long enough to house your butt and worn tastefully!)
- 1x White leather shorts (or black- you would wear both, but start with one)
- 1x Black Leather Shorts (I wear mine too much!)
- 1x Culottes (not pictured) midi length, wear with cropped tops or blouses

If you have missed any of the 'Building A Capsule Wardrobe' series, check out the previous posts here. 

I will be bringing you more of this sort of post in coming weeks, so stay tuned, and please share any comments or ask any questions below. 

Happy Capsule creating! 

xx Jenelle

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