The Inside Story of Donatella Versace’s Homage to Gianni: Classic Prints and Your Favorite ’90s Supermodels

The Inside Story of Donatella Versace’s Homage to Gianni: Classic Prints and Your Favorite ’90s Supermodels

MILAN — When she began creating her Tribute collection, an ode to the work of her brother, Gianni Versace, that would become her spring women’s wear show, Donatella Versace knew what people were going to think. Not of the clothes; of the rationale behind the clothes.

She knew the rumors that have been roiling the fashion world since January. “Rumors,” she said, sitting on a dark, squashy sofa in an opulent reception room in the Versace Palazzo on Via Gesù a few days before the show, rolling eyes rimmed in dark shadow and making exaggerated quote marks with her fingers. “Oh: rumors.”

She knew people had been saying that she was going to step aside as designer and name a successor. First it was Riccardo Tisci (that was after he resigned from his job at Givenchy); then Virgil Abloh; and, as of this week, during the London shows, Kim Jones, men’s wear designer at Louis Vuitton. The front row had been abuzz with the whispers. She knew the risks: that a show premised on nostalgia would be seen as a farewell, a sign that, at 62, her era was over. That it would fuel the addictive speculation that has become the new normal in the fashion world, where designers come and go from brands so often that a month without some gossip about creative musical chairs has started to feel like a month gone cold turkey.

But she decided to do it anyway. Not as a goodbye. As a statement about what’s next. And yes, there are multiple interpretations attached to that phrase. This is, after all, a brand that has specialized in the peekaboo dress.

It has been 20 years since Mr. Versace was shot and killed on the steps of his Miami Beach mansion, and the world has been busy mining his narrative in time for the anniversary: FX’s “American Crime Story” has a Versace series in the works starring Penélope Cruz as Donatella and Edgar Ramirez as Gianni, set to air early next year; starting next month FarFetch is selling a selection of 500 Gianni-era Versace pieces curated by William Vintage.

“Over the years I’ve seen so many homages to Gianni Versace and direct reference to Gianni Versace,” she said. “But I didn’t have the courage to do it myself. I was always afraid to touch the work of Gianni. I thought I would be criticized: ‘She isn’t Gianni.’ I thought I was going to fail. I mean, I did fail for a while! But then I realized: I was there for all of it. And the younger girls — Kendall, Gigi — kept asking what it was all about. Because you know, he died before there was social media.”

post by: https://www.nytimes.com

ICE STYLE.....2016 Prudential U.S. Figure Skating Championships Costumes Recap: The MEN!

ICE STYLE.....2016 Prudential U.S. Figure Skating Championships Costumes Recap: The MEN!

 Costumed Men: Collage of Men's Costumes from the 2016 U.S. Prudential Figure Skating Championships, Xcel Energy Center Saint Paul Minnesota

All Photos from David Paul

In my last post HERE on the COSTUMES of the 2016 U.S. Figure Skating Championships, I discussed the LADIES, so now it's time for the MEN! Now, I have to say that the LADIES costumes were just a teeny weeny bit more exciting (visually) than the MEN and yes, that's normally the case--except when I'm talking about the JAPANESE male skaters; they always BRING IT when it comes to costumes (Thank goodness!). So, without further ado, here's my Costumes Recap of the MEN...

Let's begin with Gold medal winner Adam Rippon:

Adam Rippon: Adam skated his Short Program to "Who Wants to Live Forever" by Queen wearing this great ensemble above. The black and silver sequined costume was chic and SLEEK! Adam--and his costume designer--know how to best highlight his super slim (my goodness he is thin!!) body and at the same time give enough costume support to his skate and music.

Plunging: I loved the plunging neckline (I'm a sucker for a deep-V neckline on men) and the diagonal sequin detail added enough "pizzazz". I also give Adam props for a nice clean-waisted pant. No tacky "Ross Dress For Less" belt, thank you!

And that back see-through and silver crystal sequin detail is Costume AMAZING! A definite TEN in Male Costume Design.

Free Skate: Adam skated his winning Free Skate to a Beatles Medley including "St. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band" in another fabulous costume. This costume consisted of a purple colored see-through (of course!) long sleeve shirt featuring epaulets and sequined front details, finished off with super tight black pants. The whole look was perfect for Adam and perfect for his music. Another TEN!

Max Aaron: Max skated his Short Program to Nessun dorma by Giacomo Puccini. Max is not known for being "Costume effusive" in terms of what he wears, and frankly, it can be a little (sometimes a lot!) disappointing in my fashion designer eyes. At least for his Short Program costume, there is some detail and by "some" I am giving a lot of credit. He wore a white long sleeve shirt with pintuck detail, a matching cummerbund and black pants. I can see where he is going: evoking a "tuxedo lite" look. I guess this works for Max but still, I'd love a little something more, like maybe five sequins on the shirt, at least!

Free Skate: Max Aaron skated his Free Skate to Black Swan by Clint Mansell and if this looks boring, it's because it is. I understand the sleek, aerodynamic look but I think there is a way to achieve this look with a little more style. Heck, he is skating to BLACK SWAN! Being in the arena and viewing it up close, it doesn't look like a costume of a champion, plain and simple. As much as it should be about the skate, THE COSTUME IS PART OF THE ENTIRE PACKAGE, and he didn't look like a champion. When he first came out, all I could think was "I could get that top at Zara". Now, I did notice that obviously it wasn't and it had an under lining that didn't expose his .00003% fat-free body, therefore someone actually made him this as a costume (yikes!). On the plus side, I do like the wide boatneck of the top and the flared hem. But that's about it kids.

Nathan Chen: Nathan skated his Free Skate to Symphony No. 3 in C Minor by Camille Saint-Saens in the costume above which consisted of a royal blue draped sequined top and black pants. I liked this! At least Nathan (as opposed to you-know-who) gave me something--costume-wise. The top had gathered draping, a mini sheer panel and interesting vertical folds. I also liked the asymmetrical hem and those ribbed knit sleeve bands reminiscent of sweatshirts. Thank you Nathan for this costume...and of course, for all those AMAZING quads!

Grant Hochstein: Grant skated his Short Program to Due Tramonti by Ludovico Einaudi in the costume above. Here's another look I liked. I'm a designer who appreciates a nice drape, and especially on a male figure skater. Normally, when one thinks of draping (in relation to fashion), your mind goes to Grecian Goddess Draped Gowns for women. But here's a note to figure skating costume designers: they can be useful on men as well. And I'm glad some of the men (and their costume designers) are taking that cue--besides the Japanese skaters! I liked the asymmetrical drape on the front and ombre-like effect of the gray/lilac and black colors. The lightly sprinkled sequins added some interest (note to Max Aaron, again).

Free Skate: For his Free Skate to Les Miserables: "Bring Him Home" & "One Day More", Grant went with an all-black look consisting of a loose blouse and tight-fitting pants. I liked the light sequin details on the band collar and sleeve bands but overall, I wished this look had a shot of color or somehow related better to the Musical.

 Scott Dyer: Scott skated his Short Program to Adios Nonino by Astor Piazzolla & La Cumparsita (version by Contursi, Maroni, Rodriguez). Scott has pizazz. He is stylish and the complete package. No surprise he is coached by the elegant Frank Carroll (Love Him!). I am a fan of this Tango Hot look on Scott. He's another skater who is .00003% fat-free and it's nice that his costume designer knows to make his ensemble as close to his body as possible. The look consisted of a black and sequined shirt, black pants, cummerbund and my favorite detail: the braces--or suspenders, as they say here in the USA

Free Skate: Scott skated his Free Skate to Cinema Paradiso by Ennio Morricone, Siberia (opera) by Umberto Gordano and he wore this costume above. Now, naturally, the minute I saw the gathered draped front: I LIKEY! Overall this was a nice costume with the ombre shading and crystals that gave a little bit of sparkle to his look. It reminded me of a Mediterranean evening star-lit sky while watching a movie outdoors in Sardinia!

 Timothy Dolensky: Timothy skated his short program to Cinema Paradiso sung by Josh Grobin. Timothy never met a PLUNGING NECKLINE he didn't like. And this costume is a perfect example of this. The ensemble consisted of a second-skin tight royal blue top with blouson sleeves and that aforementioned deep-plunging neckline; black pants and a fabulously sequined cummerbund. I liked this costume on Timothy for the color, the sequins and that neckline, of course.

Free Skate: Timothy skated his Free Skate to Variations on Themes of Chopin /Anze Rozman wearing this all black blouson sleeve shirt, cummerbund  and pant look that was basically the same items as what he wore for his Short Program. There were some changes (other than the shirt's color), in terms of details: the shirt featured a collar and vertical sequin embellishment down the front of the shirt plus the fact that there were no sequins on the cummerbund. But notice something that definitely remained: The plunging neckline. I told you. he loves a good deep V.

Daniel Kulenkamp: Daniel  performed his Free Skate to a Frank Sinatra Medley in this very Sinatra-esque ensemble which featured a white shiny dress shirt, black pants and sequined tie. I think this was appropriate for the program but as you know, I am just not a fan of the "Ross Dress For Less" belt. Not sure what else he could have done. Maybe secretly, I also wished he would have skated with a Dirty Martini and a cigarette a la Sinatra!

Emmanuel Savary: Emmanuel skated his Free Program to Reveil by Cirque du Soleil. Of course, Emmanuel got my fashion attention with this multi colored costume which was right for the Cirque du Soleil music. I liked this and also appreciated that he even wore black gloves to finish it all off.

Alexander Johnson: Alexander skated his Free Skate to "Eleanor Rigby" by Paul McCartney performed by violinist Joshua Bell wearing this costume above. He wore a watercolor/tie-dye-esque stretch Lycra mock neck turtleneck long sleeve top and black pants. He also had that dreaded cheesy "Ross Dress For Less"-like belt. I liked the top and how snug and perfectly fitted it was on him but after that, I was bored.

Vincent Zhou: Vincent performed his Short Program to Crystallize by Lindsey Stirling in this very Crystallized costume above. I loved this look on little Vincent. He's so small that he needs something to make him stand out. But at the same time, one has to be careful that the costume isn't overwhelming. This was just right. I loved the white and silver sequined detail on the top portion of the costume especially.

Free Skate: Vincent performed his Free Skate to The Godfather Trilogy: New Recordings from the Classic Scores performed by The City of Prague Philharmonic Orchestra in this very "out-there" look. And I LOVED it! This is costume design fab. Just take in the red and black printed vest--with crystals highlighting the princess seams and faux welt pockets (Love!). And then, all that is attached to black chevron printed Lycra pants. But my favorite part was: the red Ascot with a sequin "pin". Two words: Atta Boy.

Congrats to the Top Four Men in last weekend's 2016 Prudential U.S. Figure Skating Championships!!! 

All Photos by David Paul

**UP NEXT: The PAIRS and ICE DANCE COSTUMES RECAPS of the 2016 Prudential U.S. Figure Skating Championships!!

ICE STYLE.....2016 Prudential U.S. Figure Skating Championships Costumes Recap: The LADIES!

ICE STYLE.....2016 Prudential U.S. Figure Skating Championships Costumes Recap: The LADIES!

Razzle Dazzle Ladies: The Ladies at the U.S> Figure Skating Championships, Xcel Energy Center Saint Paul Minnesota

All Photos of the Figure Skaters by David Paul

This past weekend, beginning last Friday, I had the pleasure of attending the 2016 U.S. Figure Skating Championships--the U.S. Nationals of Figure Skating--in Saint Paul Minnesota. As you may know (if you read my BLOG here), I am a big fan of figure skating and especially commenting on figure skating costumes. I was scheduled to fly to Minnesota to do my NV Nick Verreos line on the EVINE Live TV Shopping Network (which is headquartered in Minnesota), so when my partner David Paul and I realized that this would be during the same time as the U.S. Nationals...well: Done & Done! We bought tickets to all the competitions during the weekend and boy, were we happy we did! The Championships were very exciting this year with lots of surprising results. Now, naturally, I'm here to discuss my favorite subject: THE COSTUMES!! So, up first: The Ladies...

Gracie Gold: Gracie skated her winning Free Skate to The Firebird by Stravinsky in this fire red costume. Even though the costume wasn't as "exuberant" as, say, what Anna Pogorilaya wore when she skate to the same music, I still liked this costume. The look featured a red asymmetrical hemline, sequins and feathers at the bust and "arm gloves" and an interesting sequined vertical back detail. It was a subdued, elegant Firebird.

Polina Edmunds: Polina skated her Free Skate to Gone With The Wind: Film Soundtrack by Max Steiner wearing this costume giving a slight nod to the Scarlett O'Hara costume. The emerald green bow detail adds a nice pop of color to the almost-entirely ivory costume. I especially liked the fluttery sleeve details as well as fluttery skirt. I get that Polina is young and her costumes usually reflect this but I would love to see a bit more "maturity" and refinement to her costumes; they're always two seconds from being almost too "Disney" safe.

Ashley Wagner: Ashley skated her Free Skate to Moulin Rouge: Film Soundtrack in this costume above. I almost always love all of Ashley's costumes. There's always a feeling that someone in her costume designing glam squad is reading Vogue magazine and there are elements of high fashion and a certain "skating couture" aspect. I love the gold leaf sequin work in her torso and how similar it is to the costume worn by Nicole Kidman:

Nicole Kidman in Moulin Rouge

Mirai Nagasu: Mirai skated her Free Program to The Great Gatsby: Film Soundtrack wearing this costume which I ABSOLUTELY LOVE! It's chic, expensive looking and has the look of Haute Couture 1920's flapper chic, in keeping with the film's costumes. The beading work on the top section looks extraordinary. And I admire the "mini" flapper fringes at the hem of the skirt. I also liked her sequined headband since this was very period-right. I almost think with all that going on, it might not have been necessary to add those sequined cuffs. But overall: Costume fabulous!

Tyler Pierce: Tyler performed her Free Skate to Danse Macabre by Saint-Saens in this costume above. The look featured a midnight blue-shaded ensemble with violet-grey sequined illusion. I liked the dark coloring since this definitely mirrored the Danse Macabre music and I especially thought the jagged/pointy edges of the torso detail added visual interest.

Bradie Tennell: Bradie skated her Free Program to Tango in Ebony by Maksim Mrvica. Naturally for a Tango-themed skate, one would expect a red colored costume as seen above. The addition of amethyst-colored sequins added some depth and visual texture to the crimson-red color base. The look featured a scooped neckline with "plunging" front, long sleeves and split-skirt. I thought this was nice; nothing extraordinary but adequate for the music.

Hannah Miller: Hannah skated her Free Program to Prelude La Boheme Act One & Non piangere, Liu (from Turandot) by Giacomo Puccini; Il Pristine (from The Postman film soundtrack); Vissi d'arte (from Tosca) by Puccini) in this blush colored sequined costume above. I really liked this costume and was a bit surprised at how refined and expensive-looking it was. This was a "Top Tier" skater costume for sure. If I had to pick a favorite part of this costume, it would be the front neckline sequin work which looked as if she was wearing layers upon layers of very expensive diamond and jeweled necklaces. Gorgeous.

The back (as well as front) detail reminded of a gown designed by Venezuelan designer Gionni Straccia worn by Miss Venezuela 2009 Marelisa Gibson when she won her crown (above)

Karen Chen: Karen performed her Free Skate to Les Miserables medley by Claude-Michel Schonberg in this costume. Not really sure what this black and silver gray sequined costume has to do with Les Miserables but I thought it was pretty and impacting. I can see a "hint" of Les Mis in the "lacing" down the front of the costume (maybe a nod to the period costumes of that time?) but overall, this costume might be best suited for a more "razzle dazzle" musical accompaniment like "Chicago".

Courtney Hicks: Courtney skated her Free Skate to Elizabeth: The Golden Age Film Soundtrack in this ocean blue costume above. The look featured gold sequin work that emphasized the torso and gave a look of an Elizabethan corset. I also notice the front scoop which mimics the same hemline of those period tops, as well as double layer of chiffon at the skirt which gives me a hint of the paniers of those times (sans the crinoline and boned petticoats). Overall, Courtney did look quite regal in this especially with the mini tiara and diamante "necklace".

Mariah Bell: Mariah skated her Free Skate to Born on the Fourth of July film soundtrack. I have to admit that when Mariah came out and I saw this "American Flag"-inspired costume, I expected to hear John Philip Sousa's "Stars and Stripes Forever" as her music, she would take a baton from the audience and start twirling it...but alas, no John Philip Sousa and no baton (insert sad face). But even though it was such an overt "Americana" homage, the costume designer still managed to make the design quite fashion-forward and innovative with the open back and one-sleeve detail.

Ashley Cain: Ashley performed her Free Skate to Bolero for violin & orchestra, performed by Vanessa-Mae in this deep lilac colored costume. the look was both sultry, slighty exotic and had Near East influences, albeit a bit "Disney Princess"-like. The halter neckline was quite pretty and back crystal sequin detail very red carpet-worthy. The thin sequined headband (a big trend for the ladies in Figure Skating), was a nice touch and I get that it added that "exotic" detail.



Finally...

Christina Cleveland: Christina skated her Free Skate to Harem performed by Sarah Brightman in this overtly exotic sequined costume. This look very much mirrors the Harem music and I was surprised to see such an intricately designed costume on an American figure skater; I expect this more from the Russian ladies skater, although it did remind me of  Michelle Kwan's 1996 Salome costume. I liked it for its intense no-holds barred costume punch.



**NEXT UP: THE MEN...Costume Highlights from the 2016 Prudential U.S. Figure Skating Championships!!!