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ZILPAH TART - FASHFEST DESIGNER INTERVIEW

The countdown is on until the style elite descend on Canberra for FASHFEST. In the lead up I caught up with Canberra designer Yumi Morrissey who is the creative genius behind Zilpah Tart and its strong colourful unique prints that I am excited to see sashay down the runway. 
FASHFEST 2017 CANBERRA FASHION
Image: Andrew Donato

Where about's did you grow up?
I was born and raised in Canberra

What sparked your interest in fashion?
I decided when I was 7 years old that I wanted to be a fashion designer, and never changed my mind. I spent my time as a child making outfits for my troll dolls.

What personal history has(if any) influenced your views on fashion or your design aesthetic ?
I’ve always been a very girly girl so my designs are very feminine. I’ve also always found individuality important, even when I was a child, and so this is part of the way I design. The clothing stands out in a crowd, through the use of bright colours/prints and beautiful flattering shapes. It’s not designed to blend in, and the designs are not trend based.

How did you get to where you are now? Where did you study?
I studied a Bachelor of Fashion Design at Canberra Institute of Technology, graduating in 2007. My label at this point was just a hobby, while working in the public service. After my son was born in 2013, I quit my public service job to take my business full time. This was the time when I really started on the journey, working out what my true aesthetic and business direction was.

I am super excited to see the Canberra Institute of Technology, I adore the creativity of students and their willingness to push the envelope. How did you come up with the name for your label?
The name Zilpah tart was my grandmother’s name. Zilpah was her first name, and Tart was her maiden name. After she passed away, we were going through her things and I found a 1930s brooch of a penny farthing. At that point, I decided to use her name for the label and the image of the penny farthing for the logo.

WHATS ON IN CANBERRA ZILPAH TART
Yumi Morrissey designer of Zilpah Tart Image: Holly Morrison

How many people are in your team?
Just me, myself and I. I outsource a small amount of production here in Canberra, but everything else is created by me.

That really impresses me that you are so hands on with your work in all fascists. What is your favourite material to work with?
I use stretch jersey. I love using jersey for the comfort and fit. Particularly after having a child, comfort and being able to move easily (bending down picking up a child etc) became super important. But I like to look good, and generally jersey doesn’t fit that category. So I use design to be able to make beautiful clothing that is also comfortable.

Everyone has one material that they absolutely detest working with, what is your least favourite material to work with and why?
That’s a hard one… but probably chiffon. It’s slippery, it moves on the grain, and is tricky to cut and sew. I generally avoid it at all costs.

I love your use of colour in your designs can you describe your collection in 3 words?
Bright, floral, feminine.

What is your inspiration for creating?
For each collection I design three new fabric prints based on Canberra photographs. I choose a theme and this theme directs the photographs that I take to create the fabric prints. 

I love creating clothing that is beautiful and unique, and not only makes someone feel good wearing them, but through the use of photographic prints, creates a personal connection for the wearer as well.

I agree that clothing should empower you and make you feel great. What or who is your motivation?
My main motivation is being able to do what I love. I think following your passion in life is so important, and I’m motivated to make my dream a reality.

ON THE CATWALK IN AUSTRALIA
Image: Anthony Caffery

In the lead up to FASHFEST could you share a little about what I and the crowd may see?
The new collection is full of colour. I used photographs from several years of Floriade (pulled them from my Floriade photo collection). I followed a sort of garden nymph vibe, and this will continue through the makeup and hairstyling for Fashfest as well.

You use wonderful digital printed fabrics from inspiration you have captured around Canberra, what is your first memory of using a camera?
My interest in photography is definitely something that developed later on in life. It’s something I really enjoy, but I’ve only really gotten into it over the last seven years or so.

What makes you passionate about fashion and the women you dress?
The most important thing for me is being able to make someone absolutely LOVE what they have bought and are wearing. I want to be able to make women feel good and special when they are wearing a Zilpah tart dress. This has many levels too. Not just the aesthetics of the dresses – I use shapes that tend to flatter most body shapes – but the comfort, the easy care instructions, the versatility (being able to wear the dress with a blazer for work, with sandals on the weekend, and with heals to a cocktail party), knowing that they are wearing a cool photo, quite often cleverly hidden in a pattern – this creates talking points too. Then there’s the local aspect. My customers know they are supporting a local designer. They know that the product is made in Australia by me and they end up with a personal connection to me and to the clothing. It’s makes it more special than a mass-produced piece with no identity.

What are you looking forward to at FASHFEST, besides your designs on the runway?
This will be the launch of my collection so I’m super excited to finally show the new designs, but I love being able to work with other creative people involved in the show, from hair and makeup, models, musicians, and just seeing the whole event come together.

You have been involved with FASHFEST for a few years now. Can you tell me how the festival has changed over the years?
I started at Fashfest in its second year (I was eight months pregnant when Fashfest first launched or would have applied that year also). The show has grown enormously, and it’s really developed its own identity. There are more designers and It’s earned its spot as a major Canberra fashion event.

FASHFEST DESIGNER INTERVIEW
Image: Tina Nikolovski

Can you describe what runs through your mind when you see your designs walk down the runway?
I love being able to see the designs come to life as a collection. I don’t normally get to see the full collection all together on people at once so It’s great to be able to see that. I also love being able to create a total image using the hair and makeup and seeing it as a show. I’m really excited about the hair and makeup concepts for this year. It’s an opportunity to be really creative.

What type of woman do you envisage wearing your pieces when you create them?
My customers are professional women, aged 25 to 40. They are confident and have a keen interest in unique styles and love to look and feel good.

Where would you like to see Zilpah Tart in 5 years?
My main focus at the moment is trying to expand into the Melbourne market. I now stock at Design A Space in Manchester Lane and Windsor. I hope to be able to build on my customer base there, and then when that market is at a sustainable point, to perhaps expand into the Sydney market.

What advice would you give to an aspiring designer?
Think about what you can provide your customers. What do they do? What do they find important? What do they want/need? Think about how your product can appeal to them on different levels. For example, my customers always tell me they love how easy the dresses are to wash and dry and that they don’t need ironing. Many professional women are busy and travel a lot. They love to be able to throw a versatile dress in a suitcase, and not have to worry about needing to iron it in a hotel room.

One thing I should see or do whilst I am in Canberra?
One of my favourite places to go is the National Arboretum. The views are spectacular, you don’t want to miss it. Sunrise there is incredible if you are an early riser.

You’ll also be in Canberra at the only time of the year when Tulip Top gardens (just outside Canberra on the Hume Highway) are open. They are incredible. I’ve used photos from Tulip Top in a previous collection. Floods of blossom trees all in bloom, tulips, and amazing views.

GFASHCOLLECTIVE: Thank you for the travel recommendations and giving me a little insight into your world. I look forward to seeing Zilpah Tart strut down the runway on closing night at FASHFEST and wish you all the best for the collection. 

Tickets are on sale now at:  http://fashfest.com.au/:




10 Trends to Add to Your Fall Wardrobe You Can Shop at the H&M Grand Reopening


Montreal's flagship H&M revealed its new look at a fancy soirée last night before officially opening for the public this morning. Really an impeccable timing as the warm and sunny days of Summer will soon give way to Fall's cool, crispy weather. And every fashion girl knows what a seasonal shift means... Closet edit!

For years now, H&M has mastered the art of re-inventing one's own fashion sense by curating endless re-collections of the best trends of the moment. And this Fall, they've done it again, rounding up amongst their newly revamped St-Catherine's store, the 10 trends you should absolutely add to your end-of-2016 wardrobe. Click through to shop my best picks from H&M Fall 2016 and H&M Studio collections...


1. PUFFER JACKETS

   

Before you know it, the Autumn chill will settle in, and you'll have no other option but to bundle up. Why not do it in style? Whether you're going for a hike in the mountain or just a quick walk in your neighborhood, puffer jackets will keep you cozy through the falling of the leaves. This ubiquitous outerwear is known for being big on warmth and now, thanks to H&M's update on our colder months classic, it has become BIG IN STYLE!


2. RUFFLES

   

This Fall, experience the rise of the “new feminine” side of fashion and welcome back the ruffles. This season’s fresh take on ruffles can be as subtle as a chic embroidered tier on a blouse or a shirt, or as festive a relaxed set of bell-shaped sleeves. The new feminine is pretty without being precious. It's flirty yet, sweet. And you'll love how these modern feminine pieces will make your best Fall looks flourish.


3. COLD SHOULDERS

   

Interpreting the runways' sexiest look so far, please say hello to the fashionable update on this Summer's cold-shoulder trend. Great news for the ladies who love their universally flattering design, shoulder cut-outs are taking over the Fall season with their cool, flirty and timeless factor. Pair it with a strapless bra and let those shoulders pop!


4. MOCK NECKS

   

The challenge of finding a good mockneck sweater is not an easy one. But after perusing the 90s nostalgic collection at H&M, I am conviced it is one of the most popular silhouettes of the season. More utilitarian than stylish in nature, this cold-weather must have is still one of the most versatile pieces worth investing in this Fall; not quite a crewneck and not a full-grown turtleneck, but it's the perfect transitional piece.


5. SHEARLING JACKETS

   

As soon as I saw the looks on the Fashion Week runways back in February, I knew shearling would be a huge trend once the cold weather hit. Contrasted with leather, suede, denim, or even military twill, the fur-like lining of shearling jackets will keep you toasty while the stylish finish is ideal for topping off any outfit. It's fresh and oh-so seasonal!


6. BOHEMIAN DRESS

   

In true boho girl vibes, slip into this season's most swanky version of the 70s spin-off. Breezy full-lenght dresses in floral prints, graphic patterns and tea length hemlines are everywhere this Fall so you can embrace the style that's back in a big way with nothing but a simple one-item swap. Sound easy enough? Give your wardrobe that groovy vibe you've been looking for…


7. CHOKER NECKLACE

   

If you have been living under a rock and didn't get the memo yet, the choker is back and it's gaining popularity by the nanosecond! Delicate and different, there's a good reason your favorite '90s staple has somehow gotten huge again and this Fall, H&M is bringing the recent neck-ccessorize craze to a whole new lever with edgy leather alternatives and charming unicorn pendants. Are you wearing one already?


8. PLAID

   

Although for me, days of the high-school tartan mini are long gone, plaid print remains a wardrobe staple of mine. Thing is, plaid is a print with a long history, from its start in the Scottish Highlands to its preppy rise during the 1990s. So, in the hopes of escaping the stereotypical prep-school style, I'm always on the prowl for a more updated way to wear this little classic. And apparently, so is H&M


9. BOMBER JACKETS

   

Looking for the perfect cover up this Fall? I don't know about you but so often I get wrapped up in finding the perfect Winter outerwear, I forget all about Fall. But breezy nights and the nippy morning chill can really get you so you'll need an option for this season too... You'll need a bomber! The lightweight spinoff of a varsity coat is trending so hard, H&M even got its own category dedicated to the style. When practicality and style meet in one single piece, everything seems right with the world ;)


10. NECKERCHIEFS

   

Last but not least, all hail to our beloved choker necklace's big brother, the neckerchief. Spotted around the necks of our favourite street style stars, this simple piece can put a fresh spin on any outfit. Sounds a little Western, I know, but a bandana tied around your neck is the perfect compromise between cute but not over-the-top and can add an extra inch of warmth to your Fall aesthetic.




Rebecca Taylor's New Line Will Fulfill Your French Girl Style Fantasies

Say oui oui to La Vie

Rebecca Taylor fans (and just about any fashionable Francophile!) rejoice: The designer who hangs her hat on feminine, boho styles is launching a new lower-priced collection sure to please a generation of dressers obsessed with easy, off-duty style and the je ne sais quoicool of French women.
Rebecca Taylor Lace Dress, $275

Named La Vie, the range of denim and casual separates is inspired in part by Taylor's early fascination with Parisian cool. "When we were young my parents moved us to London for a couple of years, and on the weekend we would travel to Paris in a caravan," the designer told ELLE.com "On my first trip there, I remember having this feeling of overwhelming excitement—all of the history, art, museums, food, people, fashion, and culture. I fall in love again every time I return. "
Rebecca Taylor La Vie Voile Top, $225, and Anais Denim Pants, $235
 
What does Taylor like the most about French women's style? "I love how [they] dress so simply, yet always look chic. They don't take fashion too seriously, and it's this sort of carefree attitude that adds a bit of mystery and interest to 'French-girl' style."
Hitting shelves today at Rebecca Taylor stores and online, plus Nordstrom and Shopbop; the pieces start at $95 and extend to $395 for outerwear.
Rebecca Taylor La Vie Ruffle Top, $195

Vivre your best life this fall in "a white, crisp cotton, ruffle Victorian blouse and my high-wasted denim in the patched wash," Taylor recommends. "I really love a high-wasted straight cropped fit at the moment." And with that, go forth, and feel French.
Rebecca Taylor Poplin Lace Top, $175


OLYMPIC STYLE.....Rio Olympics Opening Night Ceremony Fashion: My Favorites--and some Uh Oh's--of the Parade of Nations Outfits




Olympics Style: A collage of some of the Fashion at the Rio Olympics Opening Ceremony Parade of Nations





This past Friday night, Rio de Janeiro and the famed Maracana Stadium was home to the Opening Ceremonies of the Rio 2016 Summer Olympics. The spectacle featured over 6,000 volunteers, incredible Samba dancing and original digital 3-D imagery and strong influence of Brazil's rich cultural and ethnically diverse history as well as an obvious nod to the environment...Oh, and Brazilian supermodel Giselle Bundchen walked her (allegedly) final catwalk.








Rio 2016 Summer Olympics Opening Night Ceremony--Maracana Stadium Rio de Janeiro



So, since I love talking about FASHION and I also LOVE a good Parade of Nations (Hello Miss Universe!!), I wanted to do a recap here of my favorite fashions and looks from the Rio Olympics Opening Night Ceremony Parade of Nations. Usually, this is one of the BIG HIGHLIGHTS for me when watching the Olympics; it's a lesson in geography, fashion, local style, and ethnicity/population. I remember being a young kid seeing past Parade of Nations, learning what people from Comoros look like, for example, or enjoying the great traditional costumes worn by the African or Asian nations in particular. So...with all that in mind, here are my Favorite Fashions from Friday night's Rio Olympics Parade of Nations--including some of the Traditional ones. I am also giving "Special mentions" to Fab Flag Bearers and one Hottie McHottie from Tonga!



Let's begin with my Top Fave (and then the rest are in no particular order):





Indonesia: Seriously! When Indonesia's Rio Olympics delegation walked into the stadium and led by this man in his fabulous red-and-white ensemble...and flanked by a male and female SUPER-fabulously dressed in traditional costume...well, I just about screamed to the TV "You Go Indonesia!" First off, naturally, I adored the traditional costumes. So wonderfully done, festive, and perfect for the occasion. I also loved the "uniform" of the red-and-white jacket and bright red pants. The color is bold and perfect to be seen from the nose bleed seats and I give props to the fact that the print in the jacket miters and perfectly matches down the center front. That is COUTURE DAHLINGSSS!!!





Canada: Love the colors (of course--red and white). But I especially like the very bold Maple Leaf and "Canada" lettering in the back of each jacket. So well done, and again, very visible from the nose-bleed seats. This is SOOOOO important when thinking about designing what the Olympic athletes are to wear. You would think this was a no-brainer but some nations--and their uniform designers--completely forgot about that (I am talking to you Germany and New Zealand).





Serbia: I thought these blue, white, red and black looks from the athletes representing the nation of Serbia were quite chic. I liked the outfit for the women especially, which consisted of a navy cropped/bolero jacket, a white top and striped maxi skirt. These ladies look like they could easily belong in the South of France on a yacht. Note to France: You should feel ashamed because these should have been YOUR uniforms (as opposed to the boring Lacoste ones!); and easily could have been because of the similar colors. And I especially love the espadrilles! Fashionista Alert: Serbian Olympics Athletes are more fashionable than their French counterparts. Ooh La La! 







Croatia: OK, I know, Croatia ALWAYS does this--the red and white checkered print; it's their thing of course. Just take a look at their flag! So, yes, even though they have "been there/done that', I still give them credit for making it work via a cool zip-up track jacket/bomber and points for continuing to utilize the checkered coat-of-arms print since well, you can see it (repeat after me!) FROM THE NOSE BLEED SEATS!





Norway: I liked Norway's fun and sporty red, white and blue looks. Their ensembles featured a printed track jacket (cool print by the way!), a horizontally striped polo, white shorts and a baseball cap. This was a great use of a bold print, and keeping their athletes cool in shorts yet at the same time, looking all very unified. PS: Where can I buy that track jacket!!?? I sooooo want it; I can work that with skinny jeans!





Jamaica: We know Jamaica's Olympic athletes would be outfitted by Puma and that it would probably be the colors of the country's flag. And we were right on all counts. I liked their SUPER bold neon highlighter yellow track jackets and joggers/leggings and shorts looks. Once again, a wonderful use of BRIGHT colors to bring attention to them and be seen from those cheap, cheap, cheap seats at the top (probably not so cheap for the Opening Night!).





Puerto Rico: Me encanta! Great colors (red, white and blue, of course!) on Puerto Rico's Olympic athletes. The jacket and red pants/skirt combo are muy bien. But I especially love that some of their female athletes got to wear this shirt collared hi-lo "tent/baby doll" top (Right). Oh and every person wearing a stylish straw hat...The U.S. island territory may be broke but their Rio Olympics Parade of Nations fashion are SUPER RICH mija!





Spain: One word: Ole! The colors of blood red, SUPER navy blue and white--perfectly bold! Love the hats and the fun yellow-and-red Spanish flag belts. I especially loved seeing some of the Spanish ladies showing off their abanicos (fans). Oh and yes, Rafael Nadal looked kinda cute (I don't usually think so--sorry Rafa fanaticos!) except for maybe looking a little too tan-a-rific but then again, who am I to judge a deep dark tan.





South Korea: South Korea unveiled these Zika-proof uniforms several months back and I liked them! They were, yes, very "uniform-y" but classy and prep-school looking. I admire the fact that every man was wearing a tie and the ladies donned their printed scarves. Nice hats too!







People's Republic of China: Great colors and very put-together looks. I want one of those SUPER BRIGHT red jackets...like NOW! And I also liked the canary yellow ones worn by the women. This is another example of designers/sportswear companies using bright bold colors to have their athletes be noticed from afar. Well done. The mens ties are pretty cool too!





Barbados: Love the super bright highlighter yellow blazers and royal blue pants on the women. Barbados may have had a small contingency but they were powerful with their color-bold styles.





Portugal: Jeans? At the Olympics? Well, yes! I'm including Portugal's Eurotrash Fab looks of jeans and a blazer look here because I love them! Very sporty but still chic.





Bermuda: Bermuda HAD to show their athletes in Bermuda shorts, after all! They all looked very nice. Caribbean Prep School Chic.







Great Britain: I liked the uniforms and fashion worn by Great Britain's athletes at the Rio Olympics Parade of Nations. It was very sporty yet still subdued chic. If you notice, they were all wearing a cotton trench. Naturally: They are from the United Kingdom! I also had to add a photo of the back of those aforementioned trench coats: take a look at those crests! Representin' Great Britain!





Australia: I liked Australia's seersucker notched-lapel jackets and white pants/skirt looks. They were very WASPY for sure but I liked how polished they all looked.







USA: Speaking of WASPY...The Americans took the "WASPY Fashion Award" at the Rio Olympics Parade of Nations with these Ralph Lauren Polo designs. I know that some people have criticized their too East Coast Upper Class Prepster looks but I like them! Check out those Ralph Lauren Polo Team USA boat shoes. They're $350! (Yikes!).







Not-so-Mucheey-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Brazil: I wish Brazil would have done a little bit more with what their Olympic athletes wore to the Rio Olympics Parade of Nations. It was a bit of a let-down but...I did like the printed dresses (or is it a top and a skirt?) and the fun hats. Other than that, they all looked like flight attendants for a budget Brazilian airline.





Germany: Oh Germany. Can you say "Bland" in German? What the heck are these looks? Not only are they bland, they are style-boring and quite bad. Let's just discuss the outfit: a wine colored top, a GRAY skirt, black leggings, and a silver/gray plastic raincoat. And that is what the ladies wore. The men just wore a black track jacket, white t-shirt and black joggers. YAWN...





No Style Germany. I just do not understand who approved this and why. I don't think that people sitting in the SECOND ROW could even see them! A major Olympic Fashion Fail. The only good thing about this entire outfit were the shoes. And that is it. These get the Auf Wiedersehen from me!





Sweden: When I first saw the Swedish Olympics athletes, I was intrigued by its flag bearer Therese Alshammar and her H & M designed hi-lo blue and yellow striped zip-up hooded dress. It was kind of fab in a Sporty Couture sort of way. But then...





Oh No Sweden: My eyes began focusing on what the rest of the Swedish team was wearing. The worst fashion offender was the design for the women. Take a look at those canary yellow tops and skirts worn with knee-high socks. Bless. Their. Swedish. Hearts. Unflattering and badly designed. Maybe they should just stick to making cheap furniture for college kids.





Traditional Olympic Couture Fab-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Burundi: Go on Burundi! I loved the men in their traditional ensembles! (look at those printed robes/dresses and white satin cape/shawls!) and the women in their brightly printed one-shoulder draped looks...just FABULOUS!









Mali: Kaftan Fashion...epitomized by the Mali Olympic contingency. I love these Mali kaftans--or boubou full length tunics--the perfectly ivory looks stand out and I especially love the decorative trim on the women's and men's yokes





Mauritania: Speaking of kaftans...I also loved the looks seen on Mauritania's Rio Olympic athletes. The Haasaniya/Mulafa dresses worn by the women and long white tunics/kaftans worn by the men were quite impressive.







Madagascar: This African East Indian Ocean island nation's Olympic representatives looked quite nice in their striped Malagasy looks finished off with straw hats and draped shawls.





 Malaysia: Great pumpkin orange color and love the beautiful print of the wrap skirts.





Cambodia: Cambodia's Olympic representatives went with purple and very chic semi-traditional Khmer ensembles. The peplum'ed jackets and wrap skirt looks are quite stylish.



Flag Fashion Divas and Divos------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Marshall Islands: Flag bearer for the Marshall Islands Mathlynn  Sasser (she's a weight lifter!) wore a traditional red-and-wheat colored straw costume. And she looked quite festive!





Chile: Erika Olivera held the Chilean flag wearing a traditional Chilean ensemble consisting of the cropped bolero jacket, long skirt and ruffled top and underskirt. The entire design did look a little "polyester-y" but I appreciated how she paid homage to her culture in this.





Turkmenistan: This very tall and very skinny young man--Merdan Atayev--is a swimmer from Turkmenistan. And boy do I love his ensemble--especially that fur hat and embroidered-trim coat!





Kazakhstan: The Kazakhstan flag bearers at the Olympics are known to always look quite Traditional Fab. And this young man was no exception.







 Tuvalu: Printed shirt, flower headdress and multi printed overskirt. Check. Check and Check.







New Zealand: New Zealand did a miserable job in terms of what their Olympics athletes wore at the Rio Olympics Parade of Nations (here's a hint: it's all black with a little bit of blue!). Heck, The Air New Zealand flight attendants uniforms are TWENTY TIMES more Fashion Fabulous! Anyhow, I still had to give props to their flag bearers Peter Burling and Blair Tuke (first time TWO flag bearers would do this for New Zealand) who wore these gorgeous Maori Kakahu cloaks.







 And my SHAMELESS MALE PULCHRITUDE Hottie McHottie Award goes to-------------------







Tonga: Pita Taufatofua, a Taekwondo athlete, was Tonga's flag bearer. He's half Tongan and part Australian/British. And he's very muscle-y and hunk-y hunk-y. He lives in Brisbane, Australia and...He also STOLE MY HEART. Wearing almost nothing. God Bless Tonga. And Pita.


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