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2016 CFDA FASHION AWARDS: The Nominees

The nominees for the Oscars of fashion have been finally announced!
Last evening (March 16th) New York’s New Museum welcomed the members of the fashion community for the 2016 CFDA Fashion Awards nominees and honourees announcement. 
On the official list many predictable names, as the Olsen twins in the Womenswear category, but also some interesting new entries, like Brandon Maxwell, Lady Gaga's stylist turned designer and now even a finalist at the 2016 LVMH Prize.
Good news for Italy, that will take home the International Award thanks to Alessandro Michele’s work at Gucci, while the late David Bowie will be honoured with the Tribute Award.
2016 CFDA FASHION AWARDS Nominees
However the fashion community looks more interested in another award, which has not been announced yet: the Style Icon Award, which according to Vogue should go to Kim Kardashian West.
How wonderful.
As we wait for the winners to be announced at the CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony on June 6, let’s have a look at the rest of the nominees below. 

Womenswear Designer of the Year
Marc Jacobs
Proenza Schouler: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
Altuzarra: Joseph Altuzarra
Rodarte: Kate and Laura Mulleavy
The Row: Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen

Menswear Designer of the Year
Thom Browne
Public School: Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne
Rag & Bone: David Neville and Marcus Wainwright
Todd Snyder
Tim Coppens

Accessories Designer of the Year
Irene Neuwirth
The Row: Ashley Olsen & Mary-Kate Olsen
Altuzarra: Joseph Altuzarra
Mansur Gavriel: Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel
Proenza Schouler: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

Swarovski Award for Womenswear
Monse: Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia
Brandon Maxwell
Ryan Roche

Swarovski Award for Menswear
Orley: Alex Orley, Matthew Orley, Samantha Orley
John Elliott
Gypsy Sport: Rio Uribe

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design
Brother Vellies: Aurora James
Paul Andrew
Gigi Burris

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award
Norma Kamali

The Media Award in Honor of Eugenia Sheppard
Imran Amed, editor in chief of The Business of Fashion

The Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert
Donna Karan

International Award
Gucci: Alessandro Michele

Board of Directors’ Tribute Award
David Bowie

Written by: Stella

Halloween-Ready Beauty Looks | Inspired by the SS16 Catwalks



Morning everyone !

With Halloween being just around the corner, I thought I'd share with you some of my favourite beauty inspiration, dug up straight from the runway presentations I had the opportunity to preview during Fashion Week season. Finding THE perfect costume for the spooky holiday is only half the hassle and very often, a great makeup look can be an awesome addition to your disguise, making a huge difference in bringing your dream alter ego to life ;) Let's take a closer look at what our favourite designers and beauty partners had in mind for Spring-Summer 2016 and how you can easily take inspiration into each beauty look to create your ultimate, very own update of these #beautygoals…

1. The Superhero by Chanel


Blue-eyed superhero was the theme at Chanel, earlier this month, and couldn't be any easier to recreate on Saturday, using the brand’s beauty products or any other's. The beauty look consisted of prominent blue aviator-shaped eyeshadow, sheer foundation and a classic nude lip. So you opted for a Wonder Woman, Superwoman or even Cat Woman makeover this year ? Follow these three easy steps to achieve the ultimatly chic superhero beauty look: 

1) Prep your skin using your favourite makeup smoothing base, sheer foundation, luminizing concealer and matte setting powder;

2) Create the eye-mask style look using a fairly high pigmented, sheer eyeshadow in a shade that compliments well you costume. Make sure to underline your bottom lash line with an iridescent version of your eyeshadow to brighten up your eyelook and define your lashes with mascara.

3) Balm up your lips for a fuller, smoother yet, natural pout !



2. Countess Dracula by Anthony Vaccarello


At Anthony Vaccarello SS16, international make-up artist Tom Pecheux stunned everyone backstage when he grabbed Lancôme's new L'ABSOLU ROUGE DÉFINITION matte lipstick for a last minute swipe of red on both the lips... And eyes of models ! As a brand, Anthony Vaccarello is undeniably sexy and an extra hint of colour, even clumsily daubed around the eye, definitely sets the tone for a bold new take on the classic smokey eye. For Halloween, paired with a dramatic, sultry, long black tunic, a very fair complexion and sleek, middle-parted straight hair, such an eye makeup look can easily be mistaken for bloodshot eyes à la Countess Dracula…


3. Disco Fever by Diane Von Furstenberg


It's all about celebrating freedom, beauty and nature ! For DVF SS16, P&G Beauty Creative Director Pat McGrath nodded to high-spirited 70's nightlife with a thick rimming of aquamarine eyeshadow, painted around the top and bottom lashes and extended all the way above the crease of the eye. For extra dimension, a tight line of pearlescent blue was drawn along the top lash, which was finished with what McGrath called “tons” of mascara. To avoid it looking too tacky, McGrath added a spot of peach blush on fresh skin, highlighter along the cheekbones and a lick of lip balm. If for Halloween you went all-in for funky, boho or tropical flavours, the DVF beauty look is for you !

Editor's note: You can obtain much stronger, brighter colours by wetting the pigments before applying it onto your eyes, bottom lash line an crease.


4. Wednesday Addams by DKYN


DKNY’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection pays homage to the modern 90's. To complement the pin stripes and menswear tailoring found throughout the garments, Maybelline artist Yadim set out to create a look that shows DKNY’s sensibility but with a modern twist. The whole thing turned out to be quite a nice grown-up update of a Wednesday Addams' genre; a flawless complexion, untamed brows and darker lips. At the show, some models sported Maybelline's "Cherry Cherry Bang Bang" lips while others saw themselves attributed a more subtle, spooky allure, sporting a "Perfect Plum" pout.

Here's my personal take on doing perfectly undone brows: after giving them the intensity and colour you like, brush them backwards, upwards and then, shape your arch to taste. Simple and easy !


5. Baroque Princess by Dolce & Gabbana


The Braoque Princess (or really, any kind of High Royalty character!) is such a Halloween classic and of course, always trendy with me. It is definitely a go-to costume option as it can be appropriatly repurposed over and over again, from themed office parties, to maskerade balls, to family Halloween gathering, to treats giveaway on the 31st... The Dolce & Gabbana show of earlier this month showcased such gorgeous beauty looks that, surprinsgly, happen to be totally easy to recreate for a costumed event as well as for your everyday life ! It featured a beautiful lip and sexy feline flick, over the most spectacularly dewy complexion achieved by make up artist Pat McGrath, with the help of the House's beauty line.

If you feel like carrying out your own ode to Italy this year, use Dolce & Gabbana's The Eyeliner in Chocolate 10 to create the signature flick, with a line of Glam Liner in Earthy Brown 2 layered on top to intensify. On lips, of eight pink Dolce Matte Lipstick shades were used for each model depending on her skin tone. Simply head over to you closest Dolce & Gabbana beauty counter and ask for a colour match to find yours !


6. Walking Dead by Haider Ackermann



The punk DIY aesthetic of the beauty looks at Haider Ackermann SS16 perfectly complemented the deconstructed tailoring of the designer’s collection, just as it would complement a messy, dirty, ripped apart walking dead attire ;) Models had relatively subtle make-up on, with lashes and brows bleached, and saw their hair styled into mohawks and stretched across their face as safety pins were carefully clipped-in at the roots of the hair to recreated that disjointed chucky doll look. To achieve such an intense yet, blend aesthetic, make-up artists Lynsey Alexander used some of MAC Cosmetics' most iconic products such as the Studio Face and Body Foundation, the strobing cream and neutral cream eyeshadows, which worked well together into bringing to life (pun intended!) an ethereal, monochromatic faces, sculpted and defined with matte and gloss textures.

Key products: M·A·C STUDIO Face and Body Foundation, M·A·C STUDIO White Face and Body and Silver Strobe Cream Shade Extension (available Spring/Summer 2016), PRO LONGWEAR Paint Pot Cream Shadow in "Groundwork"

7. Intergalactic Elegance by Maison Margiela


Androgyny ruled for Sping-Summer 2016 at Maison Margiela, with a crew of fresh faces embodying gender-fluid beauty with strong looks featuring silver eyebrows, Ziggy Stardust face paint and neo-kabuki make-up. Makeup artist Pat McGrath was, once again, responsible for the metallic number and put together, to Galliano's exhuberantly offbeat taste, a clean, elevated update of the martian girl beauty look which was huge at the beginning of the millennium ! 

Make sure to use a creamy or liquid eyeshadow formula, or to wet your dry silver pigments before applying it to avoid any types of fall-outs that might ruin your clean, fresh, fair complexion. For sharper edges, trace your eye-masks with a silver eyeliner pencil prior to filling in with silver eyeshadow. Peachy, natural lips are highly recommended with this look; remember, less is more ;)


8. Eighties Punk Rock by Roberto Cavalli


The Punk Rock girl of the 80's is one of my favourite Halloween costume every year. It is such a timeless reference to a vibrant, fun, fearless era, where Fashion and beauty were experiencing a higher rise than ever before. It thought it was genius to bring the popular trend at Roberto Cavalli SS16 with tomboyish Eighties inspired deep side part and a tightlined eye. Traditionally, the make-up at Roberto Cavalli is a smoky eye, quick and easy, and of course, very Italian, no ? However for Spring-Summer 2016, the beauty looks were much more minimal with just a flush on the cheeks and several coats of mascara on the eyes, keeping the hair more chic and groomed than usual. A combo that was made to be rock'n'roll and that wasn't short on romance; again, how Italian !


9. Greek Goddess by Rodarte


Last but not least, the Greek Goddess (can also be mistaken for the nymph or feeric creature!), the most ethereal of them all, if you want my opinion. Certainly a beauty look I'd sport for a wedding, gala, benefit event, family gathering and so on... And for Halloween, of course!, you can easily take inspiration from Rodarte's dewy glow and youthful, fresh colour based on the sunrise and horizon. Lead make-up artist James Kaliardos for NARS Cosmetics grounded the look with a deeply moisturized skin, using the brand's well renowned NARS SKIN Luminous Moisture Cream, tamed brows and a warmth of pink to the eyelids. NARS' DUAL-INTENSITY Blush in the shade "Craving" was used indeed on both the eyes and the cheeks of the models and to me, to do a little bit of colour pairing is the quintessentially cool beauty look for warmer days !



Trash-Bag Tribalism "Artificial: From Raw to Recycled" by Dehautt.

Friday night found me at a highly experimental fashion design show that explored re-use, alternative-use and I should also imagine, the idea of upcycling; perhaps best explored conceptually in the Paco Rabanne(ish) bread-bag-clip dress, the dolls heads halter neck top (F-U Barbie), and the coffee sack skirt and coat. I was once accused of wearing a 'burlap sack' while sporting a raw linen shirt (by an American in St Petersburg Russia of all places - the shirt was from Helsinki..), these models really are wearing one! If this show is about making us think about how we use what is around us everywhere, everyday, with an emphasis on the ubiquitous plastic bag; then this project is a huge success. Enjoy the show, I certainly did.
"Created by Sydney brand Dehautt by Sara Nicolette, this collection enables us to reflect on the nature of our consumerist society by using often-overlooked raw materials, and allows us gain some insight into the importance of recycling and working towards preserving for the future."
Plastic bag couture cape, Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Paco Rabanne(ish) bread-bag-clip dress. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Men's coat from coffee sacks, clear plastic man dress. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Skirt from Hessian coffee bag, dolls head halter-neck top. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Black weave 'tribal' dress, Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Clear plastic menswear, shorts and jackets with coloured balls inserts. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Woman models black plastic bag cape and weave body suit. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Plastic bag couture cape in motion, Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Men's fashion, tribal theme woven garment. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
White wedding or evening dress woven from plastic bags. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
menswear from clear plastic, womans skirt from Hessian coffee bag, Barbie head halter-neck top. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
White hoop skirt. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.
Portrait of fashion designer Sara Nicolette with model backstage. Raw to Recycled by Dehautt - Photographed by Kent Johnson.

http://dehautt.com/

Book Street Fashion Sydney to cover your next event.
Kent Johnson, Sydney, Australia.
0433 796 863

Bright Old Things at Selfridges


Now, this is the kind of New Year, New You project I'm interested in. From Thursday, Selfridges Bright Old Things campaign celebrates the 'retirement renaissance'. Thirteen creatives aged between 40 and 82 (who have all experienced some kind of artistic epiphany), will each be taking over one of the store's window displays. As the name suggests, Selfridges annual Bright Young Things initiative usually champions youth, but this year the retailer has turned it around. Bright Old Things who've had a new lease of life include Sue Kreitzman, the 75-year-old who ditched her career as a successful TV cook and food writer and turned to 'outsider art'.



Nick Wooster the 55-year-old social media star and menswear retailer-turned-designer. New York-based Wooster has worked for Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman and Ralph Lauren. And Molly Parkin, the 82-year-old painter and former fashion editor at the Sunday Times who told the Independent, 'I'm thrilled to be ancient. I could only wish that everyone has as wonderful an old age as me.'




A recent survey into mature fashion and lifestyle by YouGov (for the retailer JD Williams) found that the 50-plus demographic does not feel there's enough choice on the high street or enough older people visible in advertising, magazines and on TV. Having worked in the fashion industry for decades, I do think we are seeing a massive shift in attitudes - it's been a long time coming but retailers and advertisers are finally cottoning onto whatBusiness of Fashion calls the Silver Spend. With brands like L'Oreal, Nars and Dolce & Gabbana using older models and wonderful campaigns like Bright Old Things, we are definitely moving in the right direction.

So, look out for the Bright Old Things schedule of events and specially designed products, like this fabulous Sue Kreitzman necklace by Tatty Devine:

Image: Stella magazine


TJ Maxx Grand Opening On Michigan Ave.


MaxxinistaOne who finds unique and original designer items at discount prices.  My name is Perry Fish and I am an admitted Maxxinista.  I thrifted before it was cool.  Before Pinterest.  Before Maklemore launched his career with a chart topping song about it.  

From a very young age, I was exposed to this modern form of treasure hunting.  My mother made a habit of dragging me and my sister into every Goodwill and Salvation Army in the state of Michigan.  Family trips were riddled with garage sale pit stops and bargain binges. 


 Images courtesy of tjmaxx.

As a fashion blogger, I love shopping the latest styles and live for finding a good deal.  Of course I was thrilled to hear the news of TJ Maxx coming to 600 North Michigan Avenue.  Style expert, Jamie Krell gave me the full tour of the new store space.  My favorite feature is the new Runway Collection section, with up to 60% off designer pieces.  


Halfstack Magazine:  What trend are you most looking forward to this season?

Jamie Krell: I love all of the menswear inspired pieces this season.  Traditional blazers (from a bit shrunken to oversized), loose-fitting pants and even matching pantsuits.  It looks instantly chic and fashion forward, but is also extra comfortable, which is always a win-win for me!  I also really like all of the menswear inspired shoes; Chelsea boots and loafers which pair well with everything from jeans to dresses - all trends I spotted while pursuing the racks of the new Michigan Ave store! 

HM:  What piece/item from TJ Maxx are you currently lusting over?

JK:  A designer, leather bucket bag (which is also the "it" style of the season) I found at the Michigan Ave grand opening!  I told myself I would abide by the "3 day rule" and if I was still thinking about it after I left the store, I should get it.  It's been over three days and I've thought about it every second.  Is that wrong?  I guess I need it!  

The new location on Michigan Ave officially opened it's doors on Thursday, September 4th.  Keep an eye out for two more locations popping up soon, Romeoville and Northbrook!  





Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week--Jean Paul Gaultier


Black Swans, Biker Tutus, Men in Feathered Skirts, Silk Mousseline Trench Coats, a Cone Bra Wedding Gown and French SuperDiva Mylene Farmer??


Biker Tutu: Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

French Fashion Designer Jean Paul Gaultier showed his Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Haute Couture Collection and by the looks of the video and the photos, it was a Not-To-Be-Missed show! The music soundtrack began with the voice of actor Vincent Cassel of the film "Black Swan" instructing his dancers. From that moment--and the first Swan-like feathered headdress--we knew that this collection might have some Ballet tendencies...

PETA-Free Zone: Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

As the 60+ look collection materialized, indeed there were strong "Swan Lake" influences: Luxe
tutus with mink, silk tulle, leather and wool, full skirts, ribbon-laced "Ballet" platform-pumps.

Also: Lots of Furs--in those "tutu dresses", as well as in parka coats, cape-gowns (above on English Model Erin O'Connor) and just about every other piece in the collection (it's Fall/Winter after all--a very un-politically correct one but still). Gowns featuring Madame Grès-like plisse pleating also showed up, as well as late 70's Disco-Era Divas like this one:

There was also a general undercurrent of a "Look-Back Through the Best of Gaultier" with highlights being all those FABULOUS Trench coats and Variations-on-the-Trench which is a Gaultier Hallmark:


It's Raining Trenches: Two Trench Coat looks from Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

My favorite being the GORGEOUS silk mousseline trench gowns with open back on above photos. Continuing with his "Ode to Himself" theme, Gaultier also showed many Menswear Looks--all hand-made Haute Couture naturally. These male DIVOS, stomped the runway in three-inch heel boots with Marabou and Ostrich-trimmed floor-length skirts, asymmetrical cape-jackets, poufy trench coat-gowns (yes, I said POUFY TRENCH COAT GOWNS!) and even a strapless bustier with attached shawl-over "over-gown". Check out les hommes kiddies:

Miss Thang: Gaultier Muse, Model and Collaborator Tanel Bedrossiantz, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Poufy Officer: Portuguese Model Luis Batalha, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Bearded Bustier: Model Benjamin Dukhan Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

And to put the "Gaultier Cherry" on top of this "Haute Couture Cake", he sent out French-Canadian model Ève Salvail who was definitely NOT typecast as the "White Swan" of the collection. She wore "Le Mariage" (wedding dress) with those iconic Cone-shaped bust cups that put him on the map, via Madonna:

Express Yourself: Model Ève Salvail, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

And speaking of Madonna--his show ended with the "French Madonna" (doesn't it seem as if there's a "Madonna" in EVERY country!), Mylène Farmer:

Comme J'Ai Mal: French Icon-singer Mylene Farmer, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Who, naturally was THE Black Swan of the show, wearing a fitted black leather jacket, tulle high-low skirt with a very long train (poor thing tripped on it when turning around), and of course, "Swan Lake"-like feathers atop her ginger-colored swept up-do. If this all sounds Trop! ("too much" en francais), then please by all means, see for yourself...

Click Below for Full Runway Video of Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture--Part One:


Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture--Part Two:

Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week 2012: Lanvin


Urban Warrior!


Security Guard Chic: Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012

Lanvin Creative Director Alber Elbaz and Menswear Designer Lucas Ossendrijver began with the idea of creating a uniform for the "everyman". "Nothing is sexier than a Man in uniform" stated Elbaz and I couldn't agree with him more! Could you imagine the TSA Agents dressed in these ensembles!! Now that would keep me alert at the airport!

But being that the uniform theme was just the jumping off point, these outfits are really meant to inspire the man on the street and that is something I definitely think we will be seeing especially in the Chic boroughs of Paris and New York. I'm loving the Suit Jacket with shorts ensemble above!

Colored Crew: Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012

The middle section of the show gave us some great colored suits (a definite Spring 2012 Trend!) in interesting fabrications that weren't your basic menswear tropical wools. Loving the nipped in waists and slim cropped trousers (another Trend Alert!)

Military Mash-up: Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012

And finally, the show closed with a mix of military tailoring and Boho Chic prints that had the perfect balance of structure and fluid ease. Bravo! This is definitely a collection that will be an inspiration in menswear for seasons to come.

Click Below for an edited video of the Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012 Collection:

Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week Spring 2012: John Galliano


Galliano Without Galliano...

Swashbuckling Boys: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

Last week, The Fashion House of John Galliano showed the first Menswear Collection done without the name behind the brand. Galliano, in fact, was in court--in Paris--around the same time trying to give his version of what happened that fateful night and well, give his excuses for why he said the terrible things he said. In emotional testimony, Galliano blamed pressures of a pitiless industry for pushing him off the brink and into prescription drugs and alcohol addictions.

But the House that is owned by Dior President and CEO Sydney Toledano wanted none of that. Instead, the focus was on the collection designed by Galliano longtime collaborator Bill Gaytten, who has been with the company for over 20 years and in fact is still part of the Dior Design Team. Here's the ironic part of the Galliano Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: A lot of it looked as if it was an Ode to Galliano himself; one entire section seemed very "Galliano as The Muse": The Dandy hats with feathers, the open vests under bare torsos, the swashbuckling stylings, all of it. In fact, at the end, it was as if most of the Models were serious John Galliano doppelgangers--apologetically.

There were 4 distinct categories of the show: The John Galliano Bohemian Swashbuckler, The Effeminate School Boy, The Hipster in Silk PJ's and The Toreador Rocker Bad Boy.

Glee Chic: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This section of the "Geek-Chic School Boys" was great. I loved the color combination (not a surprise) and the soft pastels. Great ties as well. It was VERY "Harry Potter" meets "Glee".

Hipsters in PJ's: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This was the weakest section to me. It was almost like they decided "Hey, we need to sell some John Galliano Underwear to keep this House in the black, so send some guys down the runway in their skivvies". Some look almost saggy, like they'd been washed one too many times. But I guess, after seeing those silk pajama pants at D&G, it's now officially a "Menswear Spring 2012" Trend. Boys: Go get some silk printed pajama pants ASAP!

Bullfighter Rock-On: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

To me this was the strongest section. I loved the mix of Toreador chic and cool Rocker Boy. Skinny pants, pointed shoes, strong boxy jackets, lots of Toreador-like embellishments. I felt the new designer's voice was most apparent here and since this was the close of the show maybe it was to demonstrate the "new" House of John Galliano...without Galliano.

Click Below for the Full Runway Video of John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012:


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